So, now some Supra questions...

As I said in my previous post, the tranny won't shift. It also is leakiing from somewhere, and the fluid is BLACK!!! But, it runs well without slippage. I have 'tested' the soleniods w/ a meter, the SL reads 14 Ohms (normal) but S1 and S2 are Open. I can get a tranny for $100, told it works. I guess I need the 2 solenoids; replacement seems straightforward. Considereing there is a leak SOMEWHERE, would it be better to patch this one up, or take a chance with a used one? I don't know where the leak is; it seems from where the juice was it's from the front and the middle, or perhaps the pan gasket is shot out. It does drive very well...

Compunding that is the fact that the speedo is not working; the cable appears shot out, so the speed sensor is not getting a reading (it does work, I tested that too.

I have the dash about 1/3 apart. Do I need to have it disassembled to replace the cable?

The gas tank leaks...Oh Boy...

The only REAL troubling thing was, after driving it for a while, I decided it needed a bath before putting it's 'jammies' on (I can't park it inside with a leaky tank, so I bought a cover. There is a gap in the roof gasket and it leaks...slowly, but it leaks...). When I cleaned the driver's side wheel, when the water hit the rotor I could hear it sizzling!!! I am assuming the caliper is not 'relaxing' properly and heating the rotor. I could smell something, but not bad, and it didn't seem to be dragging. The only other thing associated with this was when I stepped on the brake hard or at speed the car shuddered, but there was no pulsing in the pedal! I would assume from the shudder the rotor(s) need replacing; they don't LOOK bad but I don't know when the last brake job was. Usually when I buy a used car i do the brakes right away anyway; that way I know.

One other thing: the car has sat in the garage since October or November and has only been started 2x since. Obviously need an oil change, but, when I first started it it smoked for about 5 minutes. After that the smoking went away; every start after that was trouble free. (It was blue-gray smoke...). Since this is basically a larger version of the Yamaha engine in my Corolla GTS, I am assuming this is valve seals. I am also wondering if one of those High-Mileage oils might reduce this somewhat. I am estimating it has 170,000 miles on it but with the speedo blown???? (the car in Canadian hence in kM, showing 246K) That and the Oil Pressure guage at idle after completely warm measured about 1 g/cm2 (or, the first mark from the bottom...) Running pressure was 2.

Reply to
hachiroku
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Shift solenoids are a lot easier to swap than a tranny! How about getting the other tranny and taking the food shift solenoids off of them? - lube the o-rings with ATF before installing them.

Is the cooler line(s) leaking? Again, cooling lines and pan gaskets are a lot easier than a tranny swap. If it is from a shaft seal, then you're doing an R&R either way.

If you are a contortionist or are friendly with someone with slender wrists or who is a contortionist, you may be able to pop the cluster loose and reach behind. Rube Goldberg method - get a spare speedo head, hook the cable up to it, stuff the head under the dash & secure with zip ties.

Don't allow anyone to smoke around the car. Is bondo gas-proof?

Make sure the roof drains are clear all the way through by taking an air gun with a rubber nozzle and blow out the drains. At least that might reduce the volume of water that gets into the interior.

When I cleaned the driver's side

Hot rotors + brake shudder points to a stuck caliper slide. I prefer anti-sieze over wheel bearing grease on the slide pins because anti-seize doesn't seem to collect as much dirt and grit. One jar lasts a long time. I also use wherever alloy wheels contact steel to keep them from getting frozen on.

I can't answer your question about the benefits of high mileage oils, but I doubt if that would reduce the smoking after sitting for a long time because oil is physically leaking into the cylinders, perhaps from valve stem seals. I'm not good at converting metric to Engrish...

Reply to
Ray O

Oops typo: should read: good shift solenoids

Reply to
Ray O

I was wondering how they shift food! Um, were you hungry when you typed this?

Buying the other tranny and stripping it is a good idea, I just don't really have a good place to keep the other carcass just in case. I expect it wouldn't take too long to figure out if the tranny already in the car is toast.

I didn't notice any drains, then again, I didn't take the top off until the other day, and was doing other things. At least I got the dome light working! (loose connection, I just electrical-taped it into a position that worked!)

Bondo? What's bondo? (Minimal rust, any patches are going to be WELDED!!!)

I'm not looking forward to dropping the tank...on the Celica it turned out to be rusty gas lines. I replaced the gaps w/hi-pressure fuel line. It was a pain (6 leaks!) but easier than repairing the tank!

I didn't think of the slide! I just assumed the 'puck' was stuck! This may not be too hard after all, if I can loosen it. Gee, THAT explains why my 240SX always heated up the passenger's side rear wheel! The slide was stuck and I just left it. Wound up replacing the caliper about 6 months later when it started to leak anyway... (hey, I never claimed to know EVERYTHING!!!)

Thanks, man!

Reply to
hachiroku

I'm always hungry!

If the fluid in the tranny already in the car is black but it shifts OK manually, it probably has some life left. A drain & refill probably wouldn't hurt.

Oh, is this a Sport Roof (targa)? If so, then no drains. The drains are on cars with sunroofs and some T-tops.

Dropping the gas tank is a definite PITA! Maybe your local auto parts store or JC Whitney has some magic gas tank fixer upper...

The slides are just long tubes that the bolts that hold the caliper in place pass through. Grab the end of the tube by the boot and see if you can move the tube in and out - the boots will stretch and compress. If not, then pull off the boot and slide, clean up with fine sandpaper, give it a shot of brake clean, and then lube with either wheel bearing grease or anti-seize. Before you reinstall the bolts, give the shanks a light coat as well. If you can't pull the slides out because they're really frozen, remove the boot and try using a drift to knock it out. Worst case, you still need a new caliper. Best case, the slide pops out and you can clean it up and go to town.

I've never seen the caliper pistons (pucks) seize in their bores - yet.

Have fun!

Reply to
Ray O

depending on whether it is a rust hole, a large split or several pin hole this

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help. But you need to drop the tank first I think.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

Hey, Skoda Pilot, I think I like your link better!!!

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Reply to
hachiroku

Always ready to help :)

Split/rusted tanks are a PITA, and usually expensive.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

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