spray painting a car -- need help

I bought some paint in spray cans that match the original car color well. I also bought adhesion promoter, primer (metal and rubber-plastic) and clear coat to use too.

I'm concerned after spraying a test area (I'm an amateur) that I can't get the area I paint properly buffed / shined. I know the paint's web site gives instructions but I think my efforts won't get it right. Is there a trick to get the paint w/ clear coat I apply, buffed / shined so that it looks like the original ?

Also do I need the adhesion promoter on metal where I'll touch up or just start with the metal primer? I know it's needed on the rubber/plastic bumpers.

Reply to
drb
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Not that you can get quickly from a usenet message, especially if the car is metallic.

Check your local library for auto body books and videos.

Reply to
Bonehenge (B A R R Y)

Good idea. It takes a good deal of experience to paint well, evenly and without runs, and using spray cans just increases the risk of not doing well. One tip, which you may alrready know, is to keep the spray can a fixed distance from the surface, and not spray in an arc, with the edges further away than the center of what you're covering. If you're 10 inches from the surface, make sure that you go parallel, and not 14 inches at the edges and

10 inches only in the center. Also. to clean the spray tip when you've finished for that session,, always turn the can upside down and spray it until only air comes out. (Just three or four seconds.) Otherwise the paint can clog in the nozzle when it dries.
Reply to
mack

And spray INTO the wet paint.

In other words...

Start closest to you, and end at away from you, so each pass melts the overspray.

Reply to
Bonehenge (B A R R Y)

First, you don't need adhesion promoter on metal surfaces. What you DO need is an ultra-clean surface.

Go to an auto parts store and get a degreaser/wax remover like R-M 900. It's not *too* expensive. Or, ask the counter person if they have anything to remove dirt, grease, wax road grime, etc prior to painting.

At the very least, clean the car well with the degreaser/wax remover. For your next step, you should wet sand with 600 grit paper. Lightly sand the area keeping the paper wet. You don't want to get down to bare metal, or even primer, you just want to scuff the finish.

Clean again with degreaser and rinse with water, then have a beer while it dries or use a soft, LINT FREE towel to dry.

Then, spray the paint, with even storkes, and keeping the can straight above the surface. Don't go from side to side lifting the can up at the ends. This gives you orangepeel (so will putting on too much).

Put on a moderate first coat, not enough for runs but enough for coverage. Then, let it 'flash' for 15-20 minutes, and apply another cpat. Again, allow a flash time of 15 minutes and then coat with the clear coat.

Now, for the kicker: DON'T TOUCH IT FOR 30 DAYS. No wax, no nothing. If you wash the car, rinse this area with clear water.

After 30 days, try waxing to see if you get luster. If not, try buffing with a LIGHT buffing compound or wet sanding with 1500 grit sandpaper, LIGHTLY! Then dry and apply wax.

I'm assuming you're using Dupli-Color. Not the best; adequate at best. But then, tha alternative is to get a compressor, spray gun, etc...

So, the Dupli-color is OK! ;)

Good luck!

Reply to
Hachiroku

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