Steering Wheel / Car vibration

Hi,

I'm not sure what is going on but I have a really bad steering wheel vibration. In fact, I think it's the whole car. It only happens at certain freeway speeds. Also, if the road is brand new pavement it doesn't seem to happen. I don't think it's the quality of the roads either. This happens on a 750 mile stretch of I-5 and FWY 99. Doesn't seem to matter which direction I steer.

I have new tires with great tread. I had an alignment when I got them and if I recall, vibration was still a problem although not as bad. Had the tires rotated -- that helped initially and back to the same problem.

Wondering if they were never aligned properly or something else is wrong? Would a competent tire shop be able to diagnose it?

It's really agitating and not sure what to do about it.

(2002 CE Corolla, automatic, 147k miles)

Reply to
mrsteveo
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Nobody in a NG can analyzed you problem without looking at the vehicle and since you apparently do not have the expertise needed to solve the problem either, take it to a shop that has the proper techs and equipment to detect the cause and correct it, would be my advice.

Reply to
Mike hunt

The first thing to do would be have the shop check the wheel balancing, especially if this problem began right after getting the new tires. Look at where your tires meet the wheels and you'll see little weights attached. I've only had it done wrong once in 25 years, but it happens. It involves taking off the wheel and placing it on a machine which spins them to determine if they're balanced. 10 minutes max per wheel.

Reply to
JoeSpareBedroom

Maybe you have thrown a wheel weight as JSB mentioned. That would be the easiest and cheapest fix. If the vibration causes the steering wheel to move back and forth, starting slowly and then escalates, it may be a steering component such as a tie rod end or the power rack itself.

I've seen on some, that sometimes once the vibration begins, it continues until you slow way down to a certain speed and then suddenly stops.

You need to have someone competent check the steering components as well as the upper strut bearings and ball joints. Maybe the Toyota dealer. At

147k components can start to become quite worn. Good luck.
Reply to
user

If it *is* a balance problem and if it began immediately upon getting new tires, it should be free, unless he slammed a pothole or curb and lost a weight.

Reply to
JoeSpareBedroom

This is what I was hoping for -- gives me something to ponder. I hate going to a shop not having a clue what might be wrong because sometimes they say off the wall crap that I know 150% isn't going to help and it's just a way to get money. I really appreciate your having commented.

I think I might try a tire shop... the Toyota dealer here in NW Fresno is a joke. If a tire shop can't do it, I will try Bingham Toyota in Clovis and see what they say. I'd love to quash this problem.

Reply to
mrsteveo

This is what I was hoping for -- gives me something to ponder. I hate going to a shop not having a clue what might be wrong because sometimes they say off the wall crap that I know 150% isn't going to help and it's just a way to get money. I really appreciate your having commented.

I think I might try a tire shop... the Toyota dealer here in NW Fresno is a joke. If a tire shop can't do it, I will try Bingham Toyota in Clovis and see what they say. I'd love to quash this problem.

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TIME OUT TIME OUT TIME OUT

Did the vibration begin immediately after getting new tires?

If yes, who installed the new tires?

If no, how about asking everyone you know if they have an independent mechanic they've used for a long time, and are happy with? You said "they say off the wall crap". Some mechanics do. Good mechanics don't. You really need to find an independent shop that won't bullshit you. They do exist. When you find one, I don't care if it's 45 minutes away. You stick with them like glue. They will save you money in the long run, and you'll be able to sleep at night.

Don't bounce from one place to the next.

Reply to
JoeSpareBedroom

I normally don't. I moved from Medford, Oregon to Fresno, CA though. I bought the tires right before I moved and there is no Les Schwab in Fresno.

On that note, the vibration was there prior to the new tires so I don't think it's the tires... but I don't know. I just know the problem seems to get worse.

That's why I can't go back to Les Schwab and/or the mechanic I liked

-- I moved cities. 700 miles...

I have asked around about good mechanics in Fresno and heard good things about a couple in addition to hearing that Bingham Toyota is honest and competent. I only go to the dealer for oil changes usually.

I really wish Medford, Oregon was closer because I had a mechanic I really liked and frankly if I needed something badly enough, I would find a way to visit them as their prices are great, the people are great, and the work they've done thus far as NEVER required multiple visits.

Thanks for the advice though; good advice regardless!

Reply to
mrsteveo

I think the best suggeswtion was from Joe, to have the wheel bearings checked out. This can cause a vibration.

Also, rotora that have gone out of runout (you'd feel a pulsing in the brake pedal), a bad wheel, loose tie rod ends, a bad ball joint, and others. I would try to find a GOOD suspension guy at a place that won't soak you (they're hard to find, but they're out there) and have them give the car a good look.

My Grand V'Ger had a problem like this and it was a broken sway bar!!!

Reply to
Hachiroku

I read through all of the responses before adding my two cents. As Mike Hunt hinted, noises and vibrations are difficult to diagnose without experiencing the condition first hand, but you have provided some clues. An out-of balance tire/wheel, a bent or deformed wheel is a possibility, but if the condition was there before and after new tires were mounted, they likely would have been caught or corrected when the new tires were installed, especially if the tires were installed by a competent shop with good equipment.

I think Ph@Boy's suggestion is the closest. I would check the rack ends (also sometimes called "tie rod ends"), ball joints, and the rack. Other less likely possibilities are wheel bearings, alignment problem, and suspension problem.

Reply to
Ray O

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