Supra (1990) neutral start switch

I have the intermittent starting problem described on many occasions on the newsgroup and have narrowed the probable cause to the neutral start switch. In Googling the subject I read that the switch has a spring which, over time, fails to activate the contacts because the grease which lubricates the spring dries out. According to one poster, by disassembling the switch and cleaning and re-greasing the spring, the switch will work properly. Before I shell out $250 for the switch at my local Toyota dealer I just thought I'd check to see if anyone else has repaired the switch instead. TIA

Reply to
pnballer
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How did you narrow the probable cause to the neutral safety switch? Does the car have problems in park but not in neutral or vice versa? If you are willing to invest some time, then I recommend attempting to repair the neutral safety switch before replacing it.

Reply to
Ray O

Hi, Ray. Here's what I've done so far. In October,2004 I had the starter replaced because my usual mechanic thought that the starter might be causing the problem. When that didn't work he did the following, according to the repair order: "Tested for no crank condition. Able to get to crank under certain conditions, rechecked prior work and verified NSS and C. tested primary IGN circuit independently, traced to intermittent failure at ignition. Removed switch assy from column and tested, found bakelite section shattered and not centered in housing. ordered and installed. retested and found loom beyond junction near firewall with 2 wires damaged due to heat/age. Repaired and retested under varying conditons for 2 days w/o any further incident."

Since that time no problems until recently when, again, nothing would happen when I turned the key except all dash lights would go on. After waiting awhile the car would start. The car was not locked and unlocked prior to this happening so I don't think it's anything in the security circuit. Also, I tried moving the shift lever back and forth including making sure that the lever was far engaged in park as it would go. If you think that the switch can me rebuilt I'd be willing to give it a go and see what happens. My understanding is that it is on the right side of the transmission but I don't know if it is accessible without being on a hoist. Thanks for any thoughts you might have . ED

Reply to
pnballer

Wow, to me that sounds like he wrote. I replaced a working starter and then yanked the ignition switch without even testing it so I could bill for something to cover the time it took me to figure out that there were "2 wires damaged".

Or maybe the starter and the ignition and those two wires just happened to all fail at the same time!

I would think taking a very close look at everything that other mechanic touched would be time well spent even if it's not the cause of the current problem.

GL Dan

Reply to
Danny G.

Wow, to me that sounds like he wrote. I replaced a working starter and then yanked the ignition switch without even testing it so I could bill for something to cover the time it took me to figure out that there were "2 wires damaged".

Or maybe the starter and the ignition and those two wires just happened to all fail at the same time!

I would think taking a very close look at everything that other mechanic touched would be time well spent even if it's not the cause of the current problem.

GL Dan

Thanks Dan. Question remains though, and if you can answer it, should I consider the neutral start switch considering that it's been over two years since anything other than I've described has been done to the electrical system?

Reply to
edward dannan

If your mechanic used an aftermarket starter, especially an aftermarket rebuilt one, it may already be bad. When the no-crank condition occurs, it is not that difficult to check to see what kind of current the starter is drawing, if any at all.

As long as the no-start condition is present, it is not too difficult to diagnose the cause with a volt meter.

Regarding the neutral safety switch, when the car does not start, rather than trying to push it farther into park, shift to neutral and see if the car starts. If it starts in neutral but not in park, then the neutral safety switch or associated wiring should be checked. Worst case, you can bypass the neutral safety switch but you have to make sure you do not accidentally crank the engine when it is in gear or always make sure you apply the parking and service brakes.

If the car has any aftermarket accessories like remote start, aftermarket security system, or keyless entry, check the wiring for the accessory, paying close attention to the area where it is tapped into the factory harness.

Try moving the steering column up and down and see if the starter engages - if it does, check the wiring in the steering column and the switch itself.

Good luck!

Reply to
Ray O

If your mechanic used an aftermarket starter, especially an aftermarket rebuilt one, it may already be bad. When the no-crank condition occurs, it is not that difficult to check to see what kind of current the starter is drawing, if any at all.

As long as the no-start condition is present, it is not too difficult to diagnose the cause with a volt meter.

Regarding the neutral safety switch, when the car does not start, rather than trying to push it farther into park, shift to neutral and see if the car starts. If it starts in neutral but not in park, then the neutral safety switch or associated wiring should be checked. Worst case, you can bypass the neutral safety switch but you have to make sure you do not accidentally crank the engine when it is in gear or always make sure you apply the parking and service brakes.

If the car has any aftermarket accessories like remote start, aftermarket security system, or keyless entry, check the wiring for the accessory, paying close attention to the area where it is tapped into the factory harness.

Try moving the steering column up and down and see if the starter engages - if it does, check the wiring in the steering column and the switch itself.

Good luck!

Reply to
edward dannan

You're welcome and good luck!

Reply to
Ray O

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