Timing Belt for 2000 Camry

My 2000 camry needs a new timing belt...~95K miles. I'm a pretty good home mechanic. Is this something I can do myself? If so, can anyone recommend some good literature on the topic? I'm using a Haynes manual and it isn't as detailed as I would like.

Thank you.

Reply to
David Glass
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Go to

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for access to online factory service manuals. It will also have information on your axles, CV joints, rotors, wheel bearings, etc.

Reply to
Ray O

You didn't mention your engine, but the tbelts on these things are pretty straight forward. Both engines are non-interference, so if you screw up you've done nothing but cost yourself more time. And like ray said, the online Toyota thing he posted a link for is the same thing I use at work every day, and probably the best for step-by-step mehcanical processes. I think the diagnostic guides in the FRMs stink, but you won't be using it for that. GIve it a shot, and if you get stuck throw up a flag here and we'll help you out.

Reply to
qslim

One of the nice things about working on Toyotas is that you can work on 90% of the car with a Phillips screwdriver and 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm wrenches.

Reply to
Ray O

David Glass wrote:

David,

I recently replaced the timing belt on a Camry, my second. The hardest part to me was removing the bolt from the driveshaft but I found the right size socket and used my impact wrench, came off easy but the first time was a pain. I would suggest using some white paint to put marks on the gear teeth wheels/old timing belt then after you remove the old belt, transfer the marks to the new one so it'll go back exactly in the same spot. I would also replace the water pump, idler pulley and the spring that goes on it. I like to use OEM parts for this job. The next most difficult job for a first timer is to set the tension correctly on the idler pulley. The book tells how to do that but I insert a 24 inch rubber hose in the #1 plug hole for two reasons when rotating the crank to set the tension. You can tell when you're on the exhaust stroke from the air coming out and you can tell when you hit TDC when the hose comes up to the top. I'm talking about a hose that just barely clears the plug opening. You then have to continue the rotation about 90 degrees or so to lock the idler down. Also, if you do replace the water pump be sure to not overtighten the pump bolts. I personally use a 1/4" torque wrench as those are easy to overtighten and break off. The job is not hard but I like to use an air impact wrench to take things off. I don't use it to put them back. Also, don't make my first mistake and try to tackle this job in the middle of the winter under the carport. I've had good luck with all the timing belts I've replaced but on the Camry you need to really pay attention to the pulley tensioning. Too loose and the belt will tap the plastic covering when idling and too tight and you'll damage those bearings on the water pump/idler pulley. I forgot to say that the water pump is driven by the timing belt. Good luck.

Joey

Reply to
Joey

Reply to
David Glass

Is that the extent of your tools? :-)

Reply to
Viperkiller

I have a 6' high box full of tools that get used on other projects as well as stuff that rarely, if ever get used. When I work on Ford and GM products, I need to get out a much larger assortment of wrenches.

Reply to
Ray O

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