Transmission problem (I guess)

Well, to cut a long story short...there's a fork in the road - I can go left or right. Instead I went right up the middle over curb.

Upon examination of the damage the wheel is busted which isn't a big problem. The engine still has oil and starts so that it ok, however the bottom plate of the transmission fluid resevoir has a gash in it and the fluid is now pooling on the floor.

I decided to see if the car would actually move, it was stiff moving it out of park into reverse but it didn't go anywhere.

Right now, I'm looking for speculation on exactly what the problem may be. I have no idea what is on the other side of the plate but I know it has an awful lot of bolts to remove.

So, please, any suggestions other than taking it to a transmission shop. I'm pretty good at following directions when fixing stuff so I am wondering if this is likely to be something minor, major or very major.

Appreciate any input.

Regards Nigel

Reply to
Nigel Reed
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"Nigel Reed" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@wibble.nelgin.nu...

The transmission needs fluid to operate. If a substantial portion of the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) has leaked out, then the vehicle will not move.

You are going to need a new transmission pan, transmission pan gasket, the correct ATF for your car as noted on the transmission dipstick and in your owner's manual. You may need a new transmission screen as well.

Remove all the bolts on the transmission pan, check out the screen to make sure it is not damaged. Also check out the valve body (the maze-like thing on the on the bottom of the transmission and make sure no pieces look broken off. If all is OK, install the new gasket, put it back together, refill with ATF.

Reply to
Ray O

So, there is absolutely no way that if I stuck it into reverse it would move without the fluid? That makes me a little more confident that the problem isn't as bad as I think then.

I didn't add that when I tried to move from part to reverse, it was a little stuff.

Not quite sure how I'm going to get this thing onto wheel ramps since it wont actually move. Rather use those than axle jacks.

Regards Nigel

Reply to
Nigel Reed

jack it up then put the ramps under. it would be my guess that you have damaged the linkage too, since a lack of oil would make no difference to the selection

Reply to
mrcheerful

Damaged the linkage?

Regards Nigel

Reply to
Nigel Reed

If enough fluid has leaked out, it will not move because the torque converter needs fluid to transmit power from the engine to the transmission. If it does move in reverse and there is a hole in the transmission pan, there are many reasons why it won't move forward. The linkage may be damaged; the valve body may be damaged; or the transmission is not developing enough pressure to activate pistons that engage the friction surfaces. Unfortunately, a damaged valve body will be expensive to repair. I would not recommend moving the car more than necessary as you can wear out the friction surfaces.

Reply to
Ray O

Is that something I can attempt myself, given the right tools? The car would only need to be towed about 3 miles. I'd rather try the least expensive options first. A new transmission pan and ATF is cheaper than a new transmission. :|

Regards Nigel

Reply to
Nigel Reed

Replacing the transmission pan is not technically difficult. Get a new pan and gasket, remove the old one, install the new one, tightening the bolts evenly in a star or crisscross pattern, refill the ATF.

Reply to
Ray O

Yup, I've done that before, no problem there - I'm concerned about things getting deeper.

Regards Nigel

Reply to
Nigel Reed

If you dented the oil pan on the transmission and jammed the internal levers, or hit the windage tray or other sheetmetal part under the engine with the curb and stuffed it into the external linkages, you could jam the shift linkage.

Even if the lever inside the car moves, it might not be moving by the time it gets to the transmission. Or it might only move a few millimeters instead of it's normal range.

You need to get under there and look. The safest way is to jack it up and drop it onto the ramps (or some 4X8 timber blocks) to get some altitude, and then place a set of jackstands under the chassis rails as insurance. (Belt and Suspenders.)

And do not be all alone while you are under there, make sure the wife or a friend or neighbor is around, and either hangs out or checks up on you every few minutes - On the rare chance that you manage to drop the car on some part of your body, you want someone around to call 911 and grab the jack.

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

Maybe I'll do that and post some pics on a website. Maybe you can tell me what looks normal or not?

Good advice, thank you.

Regards Nigel

Reply to
Nigel Reed

As usual, Bruce's advice is very thorough, detailed, and useful!

Reply to
Ray O

Well, this doesn't look good. Any advice here would be appreciated, not even sure where to start unbolting stuff.

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This last one is of inside the wheel.
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As far as I can tell, that is the 'only' damage.

Regards Nigel

Reply to
Nigel Reed

Hey, I try. ;-)

I can't tell - everything's coming up 404, including the domain. But look for any sheetmetal parts that are obviously pushed way out of position - and from the sound of your 'only', you have a bodyshop bonanza under there...

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

OK, try

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These are all taken from the front right side (if looking towards the back).

As you can see, the transmission pan has ripped away from the metal and some of the metal has come away so it looks like I'm going to replace the whole casing anyway. Can this be done without special tools?

Regards Nigel

Reply to
Nigel Reed

It looks like part of the transmission case casting is broken away and the pan may be pushed up against the valve body. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it looks like a transmission replacement may be in order. You may be able to replace the valve body, pan, and transmission case, but the cost is probably close to a unit replacement.

Disassembling the transmission will require special tools. Transmission replacement will not require special tools but it will require a pretty extensive set of tools, including a transmission jack and/or engine hoist. An air compressor and a pneumatic impact gun and ratchets will greatly speed up the job.

You might want to check with your insurance carrier to see if there is coverage for the repair.

Good luck!

Reply to
Ray O

I appreciate that you give well-thought-out advice that is usually right on the money, particularly with electrical problems, and, you seem to avoid bad-mouthing all the other brands and makes while avoiding getting sucked into the OT stuff ;-)

Reply to
Ray O

(Looks at car1.jpg) Oh holy mother of... Are you familiar at all with The Parrot Sketch? It's an Ex-transmission. It's pushing up daisies, it's singing in the Choir Fantastic...

The case is broken where the pan bolts up. You might be up to getting the old drivetrain out of the car yourself, but after that it's time to hand it over to a transmission shop.

The insides of slushboxes are very finicky beasts to work on, and your techniques of drawing pentagrams on the garage floor in wheel bearing grease and waving dead chickens over the car hood have to be spot on, or the Gods Of Forward Motion will be displeased... ;-P

Seriously, there are thousands of little pieces that all have to be in exactly the right places - and if you aren't ultra careful during teardown and assembly these check balls and springs and Circlips will leap away and hide in the dark recesses of your workspace, never to be seen again. There are many special wrenches, pliers, and measuring tools needed. It has to be almost sterile clean in there. No leftover parts are allowed when you are done...

That is NOT a beginner or intermediate class DIY job.

If the car is very low miles you might have them just change all the internal parts from your transmission into a new or good used case.

If the car has a lot of miles on that transmission (100,000 plus) it will be a lot simpler cheaper and faster to just buy a rebuilt transmission and bolt it in. Either pay the Core Charge for the broken case (and give the trans shop what's left of the old one, they can still use the internal pieces) or buy a junkyard transmission to turn in to the rebuilders as the core.

Let the trans shop install the new box - that way, if it doesn't work they have to make it right. If they hand you the loose transmission and you install it, you assume the responsibility.

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

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