Does anyone have information on how good WalMart 100% synthetic oil is compared to Mobil 100% synthetic?
And which is better? To use synthetic oil or to use regular oil and Slick 50?
A friend uses Mobil synthetic and runs it 6,000 miles. He says the oil does not turn dark or black. Thus does not break down
Thanks ZB
Mobil 1 is better than Wal-Mart synthetic, but how much better is debatable. If you by a 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart it costs less than $24. If the Wal-Mart synthetic is 25% cheaper (I don't really know) then run the Mobil 1 for 25% extra miles.
Forget about the Slick 50.
Yeap I have to agree with you on that one. In order for that PTFE stuff to be very effective it needs to be add (at in a small amount) at every oil change.
I think it's much better just to use a good synthetic oil and change to oil and filter on a regular basis.
Ken
Your friend is confused. Oil turns brown or black because it gets contaminated (dirty) over time. If your friend's oil doesn't turn color, his car has an exceptionally clean running engine. There's nothing wrong with that, but non-synthetic oil would perform similarly, in that same engine. -Dave
JoshIII responds: I wouldn't have any problem using one quart of Slick50 once (and once only), but repeated use of Slick50 every oil change would be cause for serious concern.
Like arterial sclerosis and high cholesterol (LDL) clogs our arteries and veins, Slick 50 over prolonged use and replenishment *MAY* clog oil ports and holes where high temps also exist like crank and piston rod bearings, or self adjusting hydraulic valve lifters, etc.
You have less wear with synthetic oils, but what the difference is, I wouldn't care to debate.
The engine (if properly maintained) will outlast the rest of the car (transmission, suspension, brakes, upholstery, you name it) anyway, using either petroleum or synthetic based lubricants.
Stay away from graphite additives in any lubricant in contact with any metal at *ALL* cost!
Graphite absorbs moisture and added to lubricants in contact with steel is highly corrosive. Unless you plan to keep the engine running and above the boiling temperature of water continuously, night and day, then graphite lubricants would be ok.
JoshIII, 4SEP06, < josh3i at hotmail . com >
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Nope, you are.
Its more complicated than that.
That too.
And that too.
Every oil expert i know of (only a couple lol) says "nooooooo dont use slick 50 ever". Never had it explained why though, i assume its to do with the fact that the oil was designed to work the way it is lol.
FWIW, I have used Slick 50 in my Nissan Van a few times over the years. I also change the oil every 3000 miles. Currently at 191,000 miles, and it still doesn't burn oil between changes.
Bob
My guess is that your good luck is due more to the 3,000 mile oil changes than slick50.
For better than 15 years now, I've run synthetics in all my gas engines (with one exception). In the cars, I change oil and filter once a year, which approaches 15,000 miles. No problems to anything that is oil related.
In one engine, I blew a head gasket at about 160,000. Inspection of the cylinders showed no detectable wear. Similar results when the head gasket blew again much later. I got rid of the car at 250,000 miles.
Another vehicle I did lose an engine. BUT, that wasn't due to the sythetics. I had stopped putting synthetics in due to an oil leak, then moved and got busy, and forgot to change the petroleum oil for 2 years. By the time I remembered, it was too late. I got rid of it at
200,000.You may not want to go a year, YMMV. But I've had not problem. A good synthetic is a real plus in temperature extremes.
back when i was young and stupid, i put slick50 in a car that had over
100k miles on it. within a year, it had spun a bearing. the PTFE in it had clogged some marginal oil passages and the engine lost oil pressure.sure, part of it was a worn pump and passages that were already dirty, but the slick50 put the final nail in the coffin for that engine.
What do you base that on? I'm glad to find out that there is another, potentially cheaper full synthetic. I never use Mobil 1, because it's the most expensive. Also, in air colled engines (lawnmower) one should use synthetic blend, not full synthetic, because synthetic does not dissapate heat as well as petroleum oil.
If you change your filter at 6,000 and top it back up, you should easily be able to run full synthetic for 12,000 if your motor is in good shape. Wal-Mart also has really cheap oil filters.
--Bryan
Depends on what its designed to use, what type of engine it has, how hot the area you are using it is, etc etc etc.
compared to scamsoil, royal purple, etc, its one of the cheapest. a 6 pack runs a bit over $4/qt at costco.
Mobil 1 tends to price toward the lower end and is not really considered to be any sort of a benchmark for quality.
I've added it to two engines twice each, and they both went over 250,000 miles...
I think it was Hachiroku who stated:
That's too bad.
I wonder how many miles they COULD have gone if you hadn't put that Shit50 in their sumps!
I never buy Exxon or Mobil products - can't see subsidizing their billion dollar CEO retirement packages.
What an interesting little bit of misinformation.
Mobil invented synthetic motor oil for all intents and purposes, it has never been priced "toward the lower end" of anything and is recommended for use by Mercedes Benz along with other automobile manufacturers. MB is a company which knows a little something about building and maintaining long lasting engines.
As for Slick 50, the manufacturer of the product which makes up it's core ingredient, Dupont, specifically warns against using it as an oil additive.
John E.
Source of information, please.
Are you an Amsoil dealer?
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