1989 3S-FE Problems

Maybe someone who has experienced these problems may help a bit more, but I would take a look at the shoes in the rear and the drums as well. Did you put new drums, or just turn them? Also, are the pistons ok? Is the emergency/parking brake locking up when you set it?

As far as the alternator, take a good look at the ground connections. You probably turned in your original Toy alternator when you purchased the new one; too bad, they are so easy to rebuild on your kitchen table it's unreal!

I'm sorry I don't have a more definitive answer for you; these are the places I would check first. Maybe someone can nail it down even further...

Those symptoms mean you need to investigate the cause. If you cant do that, take it to a mechanic. Noise from drum-brakes is not all that common and usually means there is either something rattling around inside the drum or the shoes have worn down to metal. 6 mths is too short a time, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't investigate.

The low brake pedal is a bad sign. Get it fixed!

Those two circuits are not related so if they are both intermittantly flashing together, it may mean there is a short between them. Or the brakes differential pressure sensor or the master cylinder fail-switch is implicated. (not sure if these are fitted to that model)

Once again,..this job maybe too difficult for you as wiring diagrams and such are needed.

The low brake pedal is a bit of a worry and maybe causing the brake light.

A crude but useful test for an alternator is to listen for the engine idle to slow when you activate hi-beam. The alternator should increase load on the engine (via its drive-belt) when a high current circuit such as the hi-beam is switched on.

Jason

lets clear this up the brake light comes on when the alternator is dead so you have a bad alternator (may be an intermittent problem) or a bad connection on it. the rear brakes are they after market shoes or is your pistons leaking and were they adjusted correctly adjusting them engages your pedal quicker and your parking brake. Ive seen aftermarket shoes get cracks in them and it requires more pedal to make them engage also check your brake fluid the only 3 things that cause the brake light to come on are low fluid or the alternator isnt charging or the parking brake is on

Is that so with that model? Is there one instrument-panel light only, for the charge (alt-fail), handbrake and brake-fluid level ?

Jason

Yes, one light ("Charge" with a battery symbol) for electrical issues period.

As far as the possibility of a bad connection, I completely tore out the alternator and replaced it after testing, making sure that all connections were as clean and tight as possible without breaking/stripping something.

The thought occurs to me just as I'm writing this, would the grease (I assume it's grease) on the alternator connector plug be gumming up the connection? Or is it conductive and a non-issue?

Per a friend's suggestion, I completely cleaned and reconnected both battery terminals (in case corrosion had deteriorated the connections).

Fusible links everywhere look ok, that's something the Haynes manual suggested checking in case of electrical problems.

I personally do not believe the brake problem is triggering any warnings. I think the warnings stem solely from the electrical problems (but of course I could be wrong).

Jason (original poster)

How does one adjust the brakes (pads and everything are fine)?

I just assumed maybe the lines had air in them or something. A friend of mine said it's risky to bleed brakes on such an old car because the bleed valves sometimes get so rusted that they break when they're fiddled with.

Unfortunately you do need to bleed the brakes. Put penetrating oil around the bleed nipple before attempting to undo. Use a ring spanner which has a tightish fit on the nipples hex.

To bleed, start with the rear wheels. During the procedure you need to monitor the master cyl resevoir to ensure its full as you will lose some fluid.

Using a jolting action, undo the bleed nipple by bumping the ring spoanner (10mm I think) with the palm of your hand and remove.(one wheel at a time, rear first) Make sure there is no debris in the nipple by blowing thru it. If its blocked, clean with wire and rinse in metholated spirit. Reinsert the nipple finger tight.

-place the spanner over the nipple so it can be tightened and undone successively,..only tighten slightly when required.

-place a length of plastic tube over the nipple (should be a good seal, not loose) and place the other end into a glass jar with 2 inches of brake-fluid in the bottom. Make sure the end doesnt lift out of the fluid.

- loosen the nipple one turn by turning the spanner,..leave the spanner on the nipple,.. get a helper to push the brake pedal to the floor and hold it there,...you then you tighten the nipple,..once tightened the helper lets the pedal come back up. Loosen the nipple again and tell the helper to push the pedal to the floor,...then you tighten the nipple and he lets the pedal up,...this is the procedure to follow until you can see no more air-bubbles coming out of the tube.

- repeat this with all 4 wheels,..remember the fluid must be kept replenished at the MC resevoir or you will allow more air to be pumped into the brake sustem

NB Sometimes with power-brakes, its necessary to let the engine idle to assist the operator who is pushing the pedal to the floor and back.

Jason

Right,..the brake-fail light is separate.

The alt-connector may have some silicon-grease on it to aid removal,..shouldn't matter.

I assume the electrical problems are fixed now?

Jason J

Electrical problems are NOT fixed.

Today, I figured out the electrical problem really only occurs when the engine has been running for a fairly long time and the engine compartment is warm.

Should I be supicious of the internal voltage regulator on the alternator? I still have my doubts about the thoroughness of the testing I had done with the alternator.

Since it wouldn't cost me anything but time, would it be advantageous for me to trade the alternator in under warranty?

Pertaining to the brakes, the brake booster still works as a work-around until I get them bled. Does the fact that the booster still works mean anything?

Thanks again! Jason (original poster)

If the alternator is causing a dull charge light,..that may indicate one power-rectifier is intermittant or if the light is on every time you run the car, permanently knackered. This is assumimg the charge indicator and its associated circuitry is OK. A faulty regulator is capable of producing the same symptom as are the sensing diodes inbuilt in the alternator. The sensing diodes drive the light in question. They will only conduct if the altenator output-voltage falls

*below* the battery voltage output,..the charge light will in this case indicate a fault. There are 3 small sensing diodes and 6 full-wave rectifying power diodes in alternators.

If the alternator appears to be capable of max current at 12.8 to 14v output while this light is on,...then your fault appears to be confined to the monitoring circuitry ( sensing diodes, light) and as such you can keep drivng if you wish.

In this situation, and if you dont have access to a 60 or100A (ideally) test- current meter (to insert in series with the alternator output), you can do a rough check of alternator performace by switching every electrical thing on in the car while the engine is idling at 1500 rpm or so and then monitor the batteries voltage.. i Get hold of a digital-multimeter and switch it to 20v and check the battery volts. If the batteries volts remain above 12.8v (roughly, some alternators will give a higher voltage)after 5 minutes,..then its a safe bet the alternator is working reasonabley well.

At this stage, it may well be time to simply replace the alternator as they are capable of showing a number of faults, all of which can cause a 'charge-light' of differing brightness and duration.

No, the booster is separate to the actual hydraulics. Power brakes run off the engine manifold vaccum providing mechanical assitance to the drivers foot when pressing the brake-pedal. If your pedal is low, its time to investigate before you lose all pedal (to the floor).

Hi there, I'm having the same problems now with my 1989 camry. My charge and brake lights are coming on and off randomly (it seems). I've changed my alternator for a new one but still have the same problem. I know it isn't just the sensors because my battery will drain completely if I don't stop for a while (though my brakes and fluid levels are fine). Is there any connection, through belts, between the alternator and brake system?

Hi there, I'm having the same problems now with my 1989 camry. My charge and brake lights are coming on and off randomly (it seems). I've changed my alternator for a new one but still have the same problem. I know it isn't just the sensors because my battery will drain completely if I don't stop for a while (though my brakes and fluid levels are fine). Is there any connection, through belts, between the alternator and brake system?

I've found and repaired my problem (Identical to yours I think). It was caused by a loose/bad connection where the smaller wires plug into the alternator. I cleaned and bent the contacts and made very sure to click the plug deep into the socket, now it's fixed.

I've found and repaired my problem (Identical to yours I think). It was caused by a loose/bad connection where the smaller wires plug into the alternator. I cleaned and bent the contacts and made very sure to click the plug deep into the socket, now it's fixed.

I'll give that a shot. Thanks!