1997 Toyota Camry stalling

Does this happen at idle, in the driveway? Try cleaning your Idle Air Control valve. Make sure you use an oxygen-sensor-safe cleaner.

Ignition coils in earlier models that are under the cap are a commom cause of stalling after being warmed, oil contaminates the coil and the moisture shorts it as it dries.

This happens randomly when you stop at a red light or traffic jam. Doesn't happen when the car starts up, but only after it's warmed up...I'll try cleaning the IAC valve.

If it was the IAC valve, it would probably act up all the time under idle conditions; I'd go with ransley's suggestion for now. (Although, it's never a bad idea to clean the IAC valve.)

Well, if it started acting up after seal replacement then I suspect the seals first. Then it's whatevery you touched in the process.

So first: Vacuum leak?

When you say the engine revs, do you mean it idles fast even after warm-up? I had this happen once to me. It was the air conditioning pressure sensor. Specifically, the air conditioner refrigerant is at a naturally lower pressure when cold. As the engine is run, the pressure builds by the ambient temp in the engine compartment. A pressure sensor is installed in the line and feeds back to the computer. This is what regulates the idle speed in closed loop condition. If your air cond is not charged (has leaked out) you will read loooow pressure and the idle will be very high (the engine thinks it is verrrry cold outside). Hope this helps.

If it revs while out of gear but bogs out trying to drive it could be electrical, meaning there is just enough spark- voltage to ignite the minimal gas used out of gear but not what is used at acceleration, My bad coil and wires have done that to me several times, and bad plugs can do it,

I cleaned the IAC valve with oxygen sensor-safe cleaner...but the car still idles fast at times...I'm going to have the workshop change the Idle Control Sensor and see if that fixes the problem...

Any other possible reasons why it might be happening?

Thanks.

Where are you located (what state)?

For me, it was the EGR modulator (thing behind the engine, looks like a flying saucer, has a bit of fluffy cotton-like-stuff as a filter when you open the cap).

How often do you get the stall?

See also:

Michael

As mentioned before, I still suspect vacuum leak, especially after you change out the seals.

False air entry will make the ECU compensate by adding fuel. Just like stepping on the accelerator.

My car was leaking before the car started to stall...Stalled on me twice before I took it in for service...I figured it was caused by the bad seals..

When I stop the car (light or stop sign), the RPM drops down right. Sometimes it drops below the idle and stalls. If that doesn't happen, I wait for a while longer before I feel the RPM jumping on me while i'm stopped or idle or after a long ride. After that happens, as soon as the RPM stops jumping up, the RPM drops below required and stalls. I drove my car to the shop on Sunday and it didn't do anything abnormal. But I left it running for a long time in the parking lot and the RPM seemed to remain at required, even when i turned on the AC.

But after about 20 min, it stalled. When I started the car back up, the RPM was doing the same old fluctuating thing.

I'm waiting for the shop to replace the Idle Speed Control Sensor. If that doesn't fix it, I don't know what else needs to be replaced.

-ashanthjacob

also:

Hello Michael,

I'll check the EGR modulator. I read the link containing your problem. Mine sounds pretty similar as I do put it in Neutral and keep reviving the engine to avoid stalling.

Hopefully it's the IAC valve. If not, i'll have them replace the EGR modulator.

Thanks,

Ashanth.