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2 problems with axle - half CV shaft on Camry

I've got a two problems with a 95 Camry, 4 cyl, automatic, American made.

#1 On the passenger side there is a snap ring that keeps a bearing on the axle in a support about a foot from the transaxle. This snap ring is supposed to be squeezed with pliers and be slipped out of its groove so you can pull the axle out.

One side of the snap ring isn't budging. The other side is loose. I've pried it out--with trouble--about 1/3 of the way around the axle. The stuck side seems to be frozen in place or wedged in. I've tried tapping on the axle lightly and pushing/pulling on it. No change.

I've tried removing the dustshield in case it was preventing the ring from moving. Nope.

Do you have to do anything special to get the snap ring out? What would you recommend I try next? I'm out of ideas.

Well, I'm hesitantly considering removing the rear underside engine mount, which is what the bearing support is part of. Frankly, I'm not sure whether that would create worse problems or that I could get it back in place without an engine hoist. The bolts are in awkward places.

#2 I'm having trouble getting the remanufactured driver's side half axle back in. I've pushed, wiggled, turned the axle as I push, and tried to reinsert it, but can't get it to snap back in.

I've heard that the ring might be too big, but I'm not sure that's the issue, especially since the original axle also won't go back in.

What method can I use to coax the axle back in so the little ring clicks into place?

Can you use a mallet on the axle end? Or can I use a bar and hammer to pound on the ridges in the innermost CV joint casing to try to drive it in?

I'll be very happy for any advice. Thanks in advance.

Reply to
azw
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That snapring has ears on it which you are supposed to be able to compress, hence making the circle smaller such thta it will come out of its groove, hence allowing the 'intermediate' shaft to slide out with that bearing in place on the shaft.

If its jammed, try gently tapping the outer track of the bearing *away* from the clip (toward the diff). This should *unload* any side-thrust that is stopping the clip from coming out.

Fun isnt it?

whether

I suspect that may work, but you'll and up with the bearing support stuff hanging of the axle. That bearing will come out once you tap the bearing away from the snapring,..thus freeing it.

Dont forget to remove the lock-bolt that holds the bearing in the support housing.

Yes you can use a mallet to tap it in. Make sure the snapring opening is sitting at the bottom. Coat it and the axle-end with transaxle oil.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

snip

Use an extension or some piece of metal with a flat end, preferably a punch as it's hardened. Put the flat end against the snapring where it's stuck and hit the other end with a hammer. This should, not always though, drive whatever the snapring's holding, down enough to relieve any pressure, plus move the snapring in it's groove and loosen it. HTH, davidj92

Reply to
davidj92

Thanks for the help!

I've finally removed the snap ring. I pounded on the housing, after flooding it with penetrating oil, which seemed help. The stuck end came free. Then I was able to pry the ring out by working screwdrivers all the way around the ring. Yep, hours of fun, as Jason said.

Now....I'm struggling to remove the bearing from the same housing. It figures if one was corroded in there the other would be, too, I guess.

I'm trying to wedge a large cold chisel between the support and the weight on the axle to begin pulling the bearing out of its support housing. It's moved a very small amount after a lot of penetrating oil and pounding. I'm not sure what I'd do after the race appears and the wedge would keep it from coming out any more.

Any tips on how to coax the bearing out?

Can you pound on the diff side of the bearing? I can't see the race. It appears to be very thin, and covered by the rim that keeps it from sliding through the back side of the support housing, so that doesn't look like a good idea.

Would heat help? If so, what would I do after I got the support housing hot?

Is there any advantage in removing the engine mount/bearing support? (Looks pretty difficult.)

Thanks, David & Jason!

Reply to
azw

Its not a good idea to whack on the inner track as the balls may brinnel (indent) the tracks they run in (inner & outer),..but then again its only an axle support bearing, not supporting any weight much,..It sounds as tho it has rusted in. In this event penetrating oil may help, but you have used a lot of that all-ready. Leave it over night to really soak in.

If the bearing still fails to budge, then some quick heat on the housing may expand enuff to allow you to tap it out. While the housing is hot, a wet rag may cool (contract) the bearing enough to make a difference.

If all this fails,..you may need to undo the housing, pull the axle out and take the lot to a w/shop so it can be repaired.

Sorry not to be of more help. I;ve seen a Toyota rear t/shaft uni-joint cups rust-weld in the ears/eyelets of the shaft where heat and a press had to be used.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

Thanks for the help!

I've finally removed the snap ring. I pounded on the housing, after flooding it with penetrating oil, which seemed help. The stuck end came free. Then I was able to pry the ring out by working screwdrivers all the way around the ring. Yep, hours of fun, as Jason said.

Now....I'm struggling to remove the bearing from the same housing. It figures if one was corroded in there the other would be, too, I guess.

I'm trying to wedge a large cold chisel between the support and the weight on the axle to begin pulling the bearing out of its support housing. It's moved a very small amount after a lot of penetrating oil and pounding. I'm not sure what I'd do after the race appears and the wedge would keep it from coming out any more.

Any tips on how to coax the bearing out?

Can you pound on the diff side of the bearing? I can't see the race. It appears to be very thin, and covered by the rim that keeps it from sliding through the back side of the support housing, so that doesn't look like a good idea.

Would heat help? If so, what would I do after I got the support housing hot?

Is there any advantage in removing the engine mount/bearing support? (Looks pretty difficult.)

Thanks, David & Jason!

Reply to
azw

You should not need to pound on the bearing, although they do corrode in the housing sometimes.. I got mine out by tapping with a copper driver on that part of the shaft just outboard of the snap ring. I can send you a picture if you like.

Geoff

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Reply to
Geoff

If it's not a lot of work, an image would be very helpful! Thanks, Geoff. How long did it take you? Did you have to really hammer at it?

Reply to
azw

There's no longer a need, Geoff. I got the axle out, but the race is still in the support. I guess I'll try to get a shop to press it out for me.

I talked with a certified Toyota mechanic, who said this is often a very difficult job. They usually have two people working together to get the bearing loose. Of course, they use a lift, so they have a lot more room to manuever. One person pulls with a pry bar while the other jiggles the support with an air hammer. The air hammer is used with a round point simply to vibrate the bearing support. He also highly recommended PB Blaster penetrating oil spray.

Unfortunately, I had to go with pounding wedges in because my air hammer stopped working. I'm not sure the air hammer would have worked anyway because the race hasn't budged at all even with all the things I've done to it.

Reply to
azw

#2 I'm trying to remove the drivers side half shaft, not having any luck. I noticed AZW didn't have any trouble I was wondering if you would share your technique.

jpb

Reply to
jpb

There is just a little snap ring on the end of the shaft, first push it in hard, then quickly pull out as hard as you can.....should pop out. If it hasn't after a few tries, then try pulling on it with steady pressure and tapping it, or prying it out. Usually the drivers side is the easy side. Ed

Reply to
Ed White

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