2000 Camry - smoke coming out

Hi,

I had smoke coming out from the radiator today. When I checked, the hose connecting the radiator to the engine had come off. I connected it back and started the engine. But, the hose got very hot. I took it to a mechanic, but he said that I need to change water pump and timing belt since it is nearning 60000 miles. I told him that the problem could be the thermostat and not the timing belt. I finally convinced him to change the thermostat and check. He changed the thermostat and added new coolant, but that did not solve the problem. But, we found that the fans did not rotate. So, he now says that the problem is the 2 fan motors and wants to change them. If that does not solve the problem, he wants to change the water pump and timing belt. Is he ripping me off? Has anyone encountered a similar problem?

Thanks V

Reply to
vishnu.veerubhotla
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well the fans should turn on at about 198* F just run the engine for a little while and see if they turn on, or you can turn you a/c on. when the a/c is on the fans should turn on as well

Reply to
PeonHonda

It could be a fan but unlikely 2. You put the hose on and drove it, did you have coolant in it, you might have caused alot of damage and wont know for awhile. I think you have many issues to look into.

Reply to
m Ransley

If the fan is not the problem, then what could be causing the engine overheating. Is changing the water pump and timing belt the only option?

Reply to
vishnu.veerubhotla

Timing belt would only be because it's worth doing while they do the labour to get at the water pump, not for overheating. Sounds like the mechanic is clutching at straws if he doesn't know whether it's the fan or water pump or... Did it overheat first time because the hose fell off of did it fall off because it got hot? If the head distorted from that episode, it might now be letting (very) hot gas into the water causing overheating. If it's losing coolant that's a sign, or grey oil under the filler cap, or a pressure test at the garage. If fans don't run it is quite likely the temp. switch. Mechanic sounds suss.

Reply to
jg

Get your fans working first, you "mechanic" did check-test them to see they don`t work, right?

Reply to
m Ransley

I made him check the fuse for the fans and now he says that the fuse was the problem and the fans are fine. But the car is still overheating. So, he is saying that the water pump has the problem although there is nothing to prove it. How can I make sure that the water pump is what is causing the overheating?

Thanks

Reply to
vishnu.veerubhotla

My uneducated thought is a water pump is working or not working, no imbetween. If thermostat is new, I would consider a radiator that is crudded up, colapsed or blocked hose. Did this just start or is it ongoing. look inside the radiator buildup will show on the fins. If it has not been chemicaly flushed , is dirty and hoses old I would try that first. If it is aftermarket thermostat New does not mean good, I have had bad luck with several aftermarket thermostats, take it out and try it. Did air get bled out, did you check coolant level often when cold.

Reply to
m Ransley

With all due respect to your mechanic,..find another one. If your car is overheating, the faults maybe one or more of these,

-lack of coolant

-pin-holed hoses or old hoses leaking at clips (lose coolant)

- failed pump seal (lose coolant)

-leaking welch plugs in block (lose coolant)

-lack of coolant cooling due radiator clogged after extended use of ordinary tap water.

-leaking radiator, cracked or holed(lose coolant)

- lack of coolant cooling due fans inoperative

-"blown" headgasket causing coolant loss

-cracked or warped head (lose coolant)

..one of which occurs after the initial overheat and serves to keep the car losing coolant until its fixed:- ie cracked and or warped head.

The unfortunate thing is , that once an engine has been even moderately overheated, if it has an alloy or aluminium head, it may need major work and if not done will continue to cause overheating.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

You added a couple I forgot Mark,..OP take note.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

Heck, I don't think the mechanic deserves ANY respect. If he immediately says the owner ought to replace both fans without finding out whether there is electricity getting to them so they'll run (a blown fuse, you say) he's going at things all wrong. When any electrical device doesn't work, the first thing to check is whether it's getting the power to run, and in an auto that's the fuse. If an electrician came to your house and told you that the reason the TV didn't work is that the unit needs replacing, wouldn't you want him to first try plugging it in to a different wall outlet, and check the circuit breakers to make sure one hadn't been tripped?

Reply to
mack

Another thought. I realize it is a possibility that the water pump has "gone west" but with less than 60K miles and a 2000 model Camry, I think it's highly doubtful that the water pump is at fault. Mine was fine when I replaced it at 105 K, when I changed timing belt. It sounds more like a collapsed hose, pinching off the circulation of coolant. or a bad thermostat that is not opening properly.

Reply to
mack

Recently replaced the first water pump on the '91/200,000km. It began to leak badly which is usually the case, unless bearings go first. The actual impeller is usually ok even after the rest has worn out. One fan motor might fail, but both at the same time??

Reply to
jg

True,..the mechanic is guessing rather than analysing.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

Yeah, its rare for a w/pump to actually stop pumping. When they do, its usually the impellor loose on its shaft. I saw a Volvo do that once,

Its also possible for the bottom hose (on the radiator) to collapse and block coolant flow. The reason is, there's suction occuring there courtesy of the pump. Thats why manufactrers install a spring inside some bottom hoses to prevent that happening.

Unfortunately, a lot of people fail to appreciate the damage which can occur to an alloy head after even a moderate overheat. A cracked or warped head then causes major cooling problems.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

Jason James wrote: snip

snip

Jason, I worked on a (IIRC) 1998 or 99 Ford Taurus appx 3 yrs ago that was overheating intermittantly. The pressure cap is on the overflow tank, which is pressurized along with the radiator. Due to this I couldn't see if coolant started to flow on warmup but with a thermometer found little cooling past the water pump and thermostat. When I tore it down the ends of the stamped steel impellers were rotted almost completely away due to lack of coolant change and electrolysis. Also, like you, I've seen a few of the impellers come off the shaft as well, causing the same type problem. It's amazing how well newer engines will cool with a problem like this, used to be they would erupt like Old Faithful. :-) Dave

Reply to
davidj92

Overpressurization that blew off the hose? Check the radiator cap. Pressure build up should force the coolant into the reservoir (and then overflow), but blowing off hoses.

Reply to
johngdole

How much antifreeze do you use, antifreeze increases boiling point, 50% is recomended but more can overheat a motor as antifreeze does not transfer heat as well as water.

Reply to
m Ransley

What it says on the bottle - they vary, some are not diluted others maybe

75% water.
Reply to
jg

fan does not run when your engine runs. it will run at a certain temp.

also, timing belt for 97-2001 camry change is 90K and not 60k as mentioned by the mechanic. It is in the manual of the camry and per recommended by toyota dealers

Reply to
skewe

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