I've seen this in older transmissions. Basically it can due to the transmission adjustments being out, or wear. Are these trans adjustable? They'd have to be. If its an oil-pressure problem (too high) then you would think it would happen in reverse.
You should also make sure that the jerk isn't your engine rocking on a broken engine mount. Check your mounts to make sure they're still OK. Check your fluid level first.
When the engine is cold the idle is set higher, and that produces the 'jerk'. It is normal if not excessive. If you want to avoid it, make sure you have a clear path in front of you and remove your foot from the brake as you shift into Drive.
It's a 4-speed U140E transmission. Personally I think the entire U- series stinks.
Did this just started or was it doing the same when new? As others said, it could be bad engine mounts or high idle RPMs as mentioned. I hope the transmission isn't crapping out its internals like in Lexus RX of those years (U140E, F).
Generally when you encounter a problem ATF condition and level is checked first. Then consider drain/refill with new ATF to the proper level. You may want to consider getting the strainer replaced and wipe the pan clean. Find reference for a good mechanic or a mechanically inclined friend who knows what he's doing.
New formulation of Mobil-1 ATF is compatible with T-IV, which is also made by Mobil, called Mobil-3309.
I forgot to mention in downhill parking the car move forward more than my 95 Camry. Not so much in up hill parking to downside.
This is still happening. I will check with dealer about "strainer replaced and wipe the pan clean".
if Engine mount is broken it will jerk in case of acceration too. This has happened in my 95 camry when front engine mount broke. Please correct me if I am incorrect.
This is a good question. My guess is that you'd get different things going on depending on which mount fails. Did you check your fluid level? Please read your manual if you're unclear on how to do this.
Ok. The dealer will probably ask for an arm and a leg for a strainer ($100 or so). We were just laughing at that in another group. So while it's a typical step in eliminating some basic issues, your problem is probably pressure and/or solenoid related issues and would warrant your attention in that direction first, cost wise.
I wonder if this problem has something to do with the torque converter clutch.
Who flushed your transmission. What ATF did they use? I wonder if the wrong type was used because yours require a fluid suitable for slipped- controlled transmission. and I wonder if the standard Dexron was used instead.
That's the Toyota Type-IV, or Mobil-3309 ATF. Should be correct. In a typical transmission I'd first suspect the torque converter lock up clutch.
But the U140 seriers has design defects. So assuming everything else is working, my *guess* would be the TCC.
To check this, have someone who's knowledgeable in automotive diagnostics raise the front safety on stands (plus all the necessary safety precautions, etc etc).
Start the engine. **Without applying brakes**, shift from P to D. (the front wheels are in the air and can rotate freely). Does the car jerk like before?
Now do the same thing, but with **brakes applied** while going from P-
If you answer No to the first and Yes to the second, then it's the TCC.
Sure, there may be less teeth in the gear for the parking cam to latch onto. The reason? I like to think lower cost production. Again, I'm not a fan of the U-series transmissions. I think they're not very well designed.
However, you should hold your normal brake, shift into P, apply the parking brake, before you release the normal brake while on an incline. This should help a few components when you do this often, and certainly will be easier to shift out of Park later. ;)
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