'92 Camry floods when starting warm

Just finished replacing the head gaskets on my 3VZ-FE. Had the heads inspected and shaved. Also changed the timing belt and plugs, wires, cap and rotor while I was at it. Noticed poor starting when warm. Suspected the timing belt was out so I checked that and ok. Ignition timing at 10 degrees w jumper in place - ok. Changed fuel filter. Also have checked coolant temp sensor, throttle position sensor, cold start valve and sensor. All within spec. MAF sensor is an old style swing gate valve and does have small dead spots through the swing. (I'm going to look at replacement but don't believe it is used during startup so don't think it's part of this problem.) Air intake temp sensor - built into the MAF unit - is also testing ok. IAC valve also functioning.

Toyota put the car on their computer and say all systems are within parameters. He suspected poor fuel. (It was premium and besides I'm on to tank #2 now.) Since I smell raw gas when this happens, it seems that not enough air is getting into the engine. Looked at the throttle pull off and noticed it was barely increasing/decreasing rpm's to 950 rpms. I adjusted up to 1200 rpm's. I think it helped a little but I'm running out of ideas. Starts on cold start up are fine and it starts ok when very hot. Probably is hot enough to start even though it is flooding. Give it 1 or 2 hours to cool tho and it's a real struggle. Yesterday while it was struggling to start I hit the pedal and it fired right up. Oh yah... it's not throwing any codes.

Anyone have any ideas???? Much appreciated.....

Reply to
Steve F
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============================== I'd be trying fuel injector service, guessing the injectors are leaking a bit after shut down causing an over rich condition when trying to re start warm. As an effective alternate, I like Red Line complete fuel system cleaner, but would not try substituting another brand. No solvents in the RLCFSC and extensive testing. One bottle would be a reasonable cost compared to all of the other work you've already done. Just a spec of contaminant could prevent the pintel from closing fully allowing some fuel still under pressure in the fuel rail to leak into the cylinder while the car is sitting for those two hours.

Reply to
Daniel

How much was machined from the head? Is it to spec or past it...if so you have to adjust your cam...it no longer will sit at mark if too much was taken off. IF ok suspect bad TPS with no codes.

Reply to
mac1833

Head was only warped .001" so they shaved a couple of thou' to correct that and also to get rid of the gasket imprint. On my car the Throttle Position Sensor can throw codes but it hasn't. I also have checked the TPS resistance at different throttle settings and it is within spec's.

Reply to
Steve F

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