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'92 Camry v6 hydraulic cooling fan problem

Started running hot and showing hot on the guage. Cooling fan seemed to run erratic. Speeds up, slows down. Have done the following:

- flush and replace coolant

- changed the pressure cap

- changed the thermostat w OEM

- checked the coolant fan temp sending unit. Should read 1480 - 1580 ohms at

176 degrees. Got to 1480 ohms at 180 degrees. Used a meat thermometer so I figure that's close enough to a pass. (Could explain the rare roast last week)

- when I jump the terminals the fan runs beautifully and steady at what looks like the 1100 rpm it's supposed to.

- use of a/c seems to kick up the fan rpm as it should.

- no trouble w power steering and no foam in the reservoir.

Never overheats at high speeds so I'm thinking I'm down to the Coolant Fan ECU under the glove box. Any thoughts??? Thanks a lot

Reply to
Steve F
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Sorry. I can't help, only commiserate. I, too, have a similar problem. My

93 Camry (6 cyl) overheats after a few hours of hard driving with the a/c on. If I turn off the a/c, it only overheats when idling. I've done everything you have. My cooling fan has a bit of play in it, and it clicks too. I wonder if a new fan will be the answer.

There was a conversation on this problem in

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, but there was no resolution.

I'll keep checking the thread.

John

Reply to
///Owen\\\

Well I worked on a Lexus with the hydraulic cooling fan. It works off the power steering system. There is a wire to the solenoid that controls the flow of power steering fluid. Perhaps you might check your power steering fluid and maybe put a filter in the low pressure hose coming back to the reservoir. Perhaps there is dirt in there. They sell special filters to put in the power steering low pressure side.

Reply to
edmechanic

I'd suspect the temperature sending unit first. There are probably two on your engine, not sure if the OBD1 is the same as OBD2, if so then both sensors should be around the thermostat housing or in the block in that area. One will have one wire, that's for guage or idiot light, and one will have two wires, that's for temperature sensing for various controls and computer. One other thought is the fan control may need enough current to require a relay. If so then the contacts in the relay could be pitted enough to cause an intermittant contact and make the fan start and stop. These relays are usually around the maxi-fuse box under the hood, are usually black and appx 3/4"x3/4"x1". There could be a couple more relays in the same area, one for fuel pump and another for AC clutch. If so, you can pull them one at a time to find the one that's for AC clutch, then use it for a known good one to substitute. HTH, davidj92

Reply to
davidj92

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