'93 camry cv joints removal

I'm using a Haynes manual to remove the cv joints on the right and left sides. The manual is saying that all I have left to do is to use a prybar or to pull on the intermediate drive shaft and it will come out. The problem with that is that it wont budge. We bent one of our prybars trying to get it out and everything is loose. Any Thoughts

Reply to
ndale
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there is a bearing on the intermediate shaft that rusts to the shaft. No amount of hammering or pulling worked. It finally broke free when I chained a comealong to a visegrip around the shaft. The other end of the comelong was hooked to a pipe with one end braced against the frame.

I asked the Toyota shop about how they handled it. Was told they use a torch to heat the bearing. If that doesn't work, they only replace the outboard end.

Reply to
fireant

Me? Ida used a small, 4" grinder, with a thin_ish cut_off, abrasive wheel,

1/8" ???, cut a slot in both bearing raceways ... an "easy_off" from there.

'Slot' cut the outta race 1st ... chisel 'crack' it in half , if required ... Outter race pops off 1st, outta the way ... balls/rollers are now loose/gone ...

Dont quite 'cut' to the inner_race =to= the shaft surface, leave 1/32" ??? drive a chisel into the slot, slightly "widens" the inner race enuf to loosen, and get the bbg race off.

'More' effort' and time, but a much cleaner job.

Not a 'fan' of torch heat on such a shaft, nor of rough shaft handling, nor of half_assed, "half_shaft" repairs ... .

Ed

Reply to
0_Qed

Check out this.....

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you missed something.FWIW YMMV

Reply to
NickySantoro

Torches! Angle grinders! Will anything be left to replace!

First make sure the lock bolt and big snap ring on the intermediate bearing housing are removed. The lock bolt has a little plastic plug under it, so don't lose that. The centre bearing stays on the shaft, so you won't be trying to make the shaft come right through it, just the bearing out of its housing, that's all.

Spray some penetrant like WD40 into the joint between the bearing outer race and the housing, and leave it to soak a long time, maybe with another application or two. Then with a copper drift (punch if you are in the USA) tap hard on the step in the shaft which is just outboard of the centre bearing. It may take some determined banging, but the shaft should move slowly outwards.

When it is almost out, support the inner end as it comes out of the diff housing, so that the rubber seal there is not torn.

When you replace the bearing, it should go into the housing quite easily if you apply some anti-seize on the outer race. That is what Toyotamota should have done in the first place.

When Toyota talks about using torches, they mean they heat the intermediate bearing housing to expand it and free the bearing, and that can be done until it is very warm to touch, but too much will ruin the bearing seals. You don't need any angle grinders unless you plan serious vandalism to the car.

Reply to
Geoff

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