93 Camry timing belt questions

Jr. and I replaced the timing belt on the 93 Camry. Put it all back together, started alright and ran for a few miles before it quit. Checked timing, found it was way off so we loosened the timing belt, put Crank at TDC, rotated camshaft/distributor to #1 plug and re-installed timing belt. Checked proper installation by putting it through 2 rpms, everything was fine. Started it again, reset timing to 5 degrees BTDC, idled fine. Drove a few blocks and the car died again.

For some reason the timing belt is jumping the gears. All I can figure is that the tensioner pulley is not working right. Question #1. The tensioner pulley is supposed to be free to take up the slack, right? Question #2: Haynes makes no mention of proper torque for the tensioner pulley bolt. What is the right amount of torque for that bolt?

Thanks in advance. F

Reply to
Fireant
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In my 97 Camry Haynes manual it says once the belt is on to tighten the idler pully(tensioner) to specification. which in the front of the chapter says 31 Ftlbs of torque.

Reply to
ROBMURR

No. This is not correct. Although it may seem logical, it is not done this way. I think the six cylinder has a hydraulic tensioner that operates dynamically. For the four cylinder as you're describing, there is a trick to getting the belt tensioned correctly. Loosen the bolt holding the tensioner pulley, and pull up or pry on that pulley with a great deal of force to tension the belt, then release, allowing the spring to hold the tension, and tighten the tensioner pulley bolt. The spring will not exert enough tension by inself, but will hold correctly once you have pre-tensioned the belt manually. By the way, you should always use a new spring. Since your new belt has been slipping, and belts are relatively inexpensive, and go a long time before being changed, carefully double check the edges of all the teeth before reinstallation to make sure everything still looks new. Some use a pry bar to pre-tension the belt, I used a sturdy hook tool from a "hook and pick:" set, and pulled up very firmly about three times, pulling strongly enough to move the engine. You should also remove the tensioner and idler pulleys while you're there, spin them by hand, and make sure they turn freely, smoothly and quietly on the bearings, and that there is zero free play as they rotate.

Reply to
Daniel M. Dreifus

Here's some input from a sadder-but-wiser guy regarding timing belt replacements: replace your idler pulleys/tensioners when replacing timing belts. I had a belt replaced in Feb. 03. 13 months later, the new timing belt broke, and it turned out the reason why was a worn bearing in a idler pulley broke apart and cut the belt. If I'd had that done at the same time as the first belt replacement, I'd have saved myself at least $500.

Mike

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Reply to
M. Hamill

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