95 camry 2.2 stalling

Did you replace the ignition coil when the distributor was changed?

Yes I changed all that, I'm thinking the IAC, there are no codes which makes it even worse,

I would see if you get spark when this happens, you can buy a spark tester you just touch to plug wires and it will light up upon each spark.

My 92 Camary suffers sort of the same thing. It will idle fine, then cough and quit. It can be restarted rightaway, with a little hesitation I think is due to flooding. No codes(argh!). As well in park or gear, it can be at idle, but a touch of the throttle will kill it. When we put a spark tester on it, it seemed to weaken, but still showed signs of spark.

Well it's 91 today and it's stalling like crazy, has to do with temp.

Stalling when the car reaches operating temp and then going away after

15-45 minutes is a wet-bad coil. Oil can leak past the ring and nightime high humidity or rain can cause this. Continous stalling I am just guessing could be the ignition module, coil, fuel pump

I'm not talking about engine temp, I talking about the air temp outside. This only occurs in the summer months.

You've still got something thermal related causing the problem. What Marc is telling you is an intermittant problem tied to heat is usually the coil or the first place to look as it could be coil related. This is a basic rule in diagnostics or at least an old rule. :-) davidj92

Good news guys, I solved the problem. I was finally able to get the flash codes to work, first I cleared all codes and waited for the car to stall, I then pulled a 22 code from the ECM, Coolant temp sensor.(CTS) I grab the connector and gave it a shake and the car stalled. With the connector off the car ran great and did not stall. I check the voltage and I noticed that the sensor would short out at times.

I h>> I'm not talking about engine temp, I talking about the air temp

Glad you found the problem and that it wasn't expensive. Thanks for posting results. davidj92

"" wrote: > Hello al I have an 95 2.2 camry that will stall at times, it's > as if you > turn the key off. I repace the distributor and ti still > stalls. I n the > winter months it's fine only when the temp is in the 80's this > occurs, > > Any Idea's?

I have a 96 Toyota and have also been experiencing a stalling problem. Its spiratic - can?t determine a rhyme or reason. It seems as though I have gotten some bad gas but have treated the gas, gotten new fuel pump, filter etc. Doesn?t solve the problem. Can feel it ?jumping? somewhat during acceleration - but once I come to an idle it will stall. Once it stalls will not start again for 5 minutes. It seems as though something resets in the computer. And the latest experience with this - after waiting the 5 minutes I heard a very slight click - not sure exactly where the sound came from possibly the fuse box - but I was setting in the drivers seat of the car. After the 5 minutes I start the car and continue with no problem. Any suggestions for solving this. Took the car to the mechanic in Feb. who did $350 worth of work a basic tune up - put the car on computer - did not indicate any problems. Any suggestions?

Jim, thanks for the info. We will try that. Can someone give me an idea where the coolant temp sensor is located? Is it very difficult to replace?

"mjennell" wrote: > Jim, thanks for the info. We will try that. Can someone give > me an idea where the coolant temp sensor is located? Is it > very difficult to replace?

What about the ignition module? Does anyone know if there is some way to test it to see if it is working properly? Costs about $140 and if that is not the problem the parts store?s usually will not take it back.

"mjennell" wrote: > What about the ignition module? Does anyone know if there is > some way to test it to see if it is working properly? Costs > about $140 and if that is not the problem the parts store's > usually will not take it back.

My guess is that the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculator) was stuck in the open position and finally reset ( the click that was heard). I have had this same exact problem on 95 & 99 Camrys. The problem shows itself as a very bad idle or stall out, usually when HOT. The valve sticks in the up position and interferes with the IAC (Idle Air Control). My fix was to remove and clean the EGR. A new one is about $150

Today, we did a new distributer, coil and MAP sensor, all to no prevail. Will try the the CTS tomorrow, thanks for the catch. Really looking forward to driving the vehicle eventually, lol...