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96 camry stalling after driving awhile

Hello,

I've got a 1996 camry, which lately has begun to stall maybe twice a month, but always AFTER driving several miles, and ONLY when I'm stopped at a stop-sign, making a left turn, etc. In the past this would happen after a 40-70 mile trip, but it actually did this TWICE in one day, on the way home after I went shopping for the Day-After-Thanksgiving sales.

What seems to happen is the engine's RPM varies between 0 and 750 RPM. Shifting into Neutral then tapping the accelerator seems to fix the problem for the time being, but once I was doing a left turn, and the engine quit (and so did the power steering). Good thing I had enough momentum to complete the left turn. (!!)

I did add fuel injector treatment for awhile, but that didn't seem to fix the problem. Replaced the PCV valve, blew out the EGR filter with compressed air, changed the air filter. Looking at replacing the air intake hose down the line - I put some duct tape around the hose where it was cracking.

I'm certain others have had a similar problem, only I'm not sure where to focus my investigation. EGR valve? Ignition system? Air intake hose?

Also, I seem to get a "burning rubber" smell coming from under the hood after driving awhile. Any ideas what this could be? I did have the valve cover gasket replaced at Pep Boys a few months ago. Mike

Reply to
onehappymadman
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You may have a vacuum leak. Check the cover gasket to see if it's leaking oil (and vacuum), especially around irregular surfaces (bends near cams, cut-outs, etc). Check to make sure all hoses are connected and that the tech didn't forget to plug one back.

Your idle air control valve may be plugged up. It's a common problem that causes the rpms to be low when the engine is warm and can shut off your engine if you are not on the accelerator during idle as you described. Do a web search to find out how to clean this.

Reply to
johngdole

Is the "idle air control valve" the same as the "intake air control valve"? Haynes mentions an Intake (but I can't seem to find an Idle in the Haynes) control valve.

Reply to
mrdarrett

I forgot to mention, I've got a 4-cylinder engine. Does the idle air control valve still exist for 4-cylinder engines, or only for the V6?

Reply to
onehappymadman

Check the spark plug wires or boots inside the spark plug tubes. They can short to ground where you don't see them but may smell burning rubber. If Pep Boys handles the wires they may not have been extra careful with the old wires. Rough handling of the wires can also cause missing. Only use original equipment parts if you replace spark plug wires to avoid problems later.

Reply to
Daniel

Ok, I'll look into that. My dad replaced the spark plugs, but we haven't changed the wires.

I did check under the hood in the darkened garage. No sparking/arcing observed by the wires...

Thanks,

Mike

Reply to
onehappymadman

A dying after just getting warm then being ok after 15-45 minutes is common of coil under the cap cars, my 91 has it, Oil leaks past the O ring and water condenses, when heated it shorts the coil, solution now is to clean the coil with electronic spray and alcohol. Later if it returns a new O ring. Secondary shorts as in plug wires is common, I changed my plugs and by accident ripped a plug boot and one cilinder missfired under load only, Idle was fine, but car would not die. A coil will make the car die. Plug shorts on my 91 cant be seen as plugs are recessed apx 9" in the head. Aftermarket wires are usualy crap lasting me 2-3 years. Or something totaly different. A coil issue is worst after a rain or when humid, parked outside, but clears up after no more then 1 hr sitting from engine heat drying out the distributor.

Reply to
m Ransley

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