99 camry how to check shocks

99 camry how to check shocks

v6 160,000 miles origional shocks

Reply to
wp51dos
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============================= A lot of people will tell you that simply based on mileage they're worn out.

I prefer a more quantitative approach - like how could they be tested.

Here is a response from another Group some time ago (not my words):

Best test for a shock (short of dyno-testing) is to drive it fairly aggressively - but carefully - over rough road. If the car remains under control, then the shocks are, likely, okay.

If one end or the other tends to "wash out", then new shocks (or struts) are indicated. ================================== The "test rig" that Jason refers to is known as a shock absorber dynamometer.....and I own one.

Basically, it gives you a graph of the pressures produced as compared to the shaft velocities at which they are produced when the shock is moved at different speeds - ranging from a shaft velocity of one-inch-per-second to

20 i.p.s.

Basically, a shock that creates 200 pounds of resistance pressure while

moving at a shaft velocity of five i.p.s will better control a car than a shock that only produces 100 pounds of resistance pressure at the same shaft velocity.

We use these graphs a bit differently in racing applications to "fine-tune" the suspension with shocks, but the above information is pretty much all you need to know for standard passenger automobiles....more shock pressure at a given shaft velocity controls better than less pressure at the same velocity.

When internal valves and springs weaken and wear out (imagine how many cycles a shock valve control spring experiences in 50,000 miles of compressing to open and close the valving each time the shaft moves in or out) , they allow fluid to pass more easily at lower pressures - usually with no external leakage to suggest that any sort of problem exists.

The so-called "bounce test" only tells you if a shock will control a car while negotiating "Mickey D" parking lot speed bumps at less than five mph with a carload of rug rats and Happy Meals.

"Hand-testing" a shock off the car moves the shaft at a velocity of approximately one-half i.p.s.

A shock can "feel" good at slow "bounce-test" or "hand-test" speeds of one i.p.s. or less because it is only passing fluid through its designed, low-speed, bleed orifices and/or bypassing the seals, but be a complete

failure at higher shaft velocities once it gets up onto the valving....sometimes, actually providing less resistance at five i.p.s.

then at "bounce-test" velocities once the valves open up.

On a smooth road, the shocks will likely be working in the 2-6 i.p.s. shaft velocity range....which simply cannot be duplicated by bouncing on the bumper of the car.

Best test for a shock (short of dyno-testing) is to drive it fairly aggressively - but carefully - over rough road. If the car remains under control, then the shocks are, likely, okay.

If one end or the other tends to "wash out", then new shocks (or struts) are indicated.

Reply to
Daniel

thank you for info

Daniel wrote:

Reply to
wp51dos

Consider a Step 2; test drive a new Camry and drive it aggressively over the same rough road. Note difference in speed. The new car will be under control at a higher speed than the car with worn out suspension parts. You may be surprised just how much faster the new car will run.

It's a safe bet that OEM struts/shocks with 160K miles on them are worn out.

Reply to
ACAR

Check Monroe's FAQ

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and
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(Shock & Safety 101 tab). These should answer some of your questions.

Initially I thought Monroe's recommendation of replacement at 50K miles more of a marketing thing. But after seeing OEM strut degradations around 50-70K miles I now agree. Often these degradations are so gradual it's hard to notice.

Since I change my own struts, $250 for all four corners using Gabriel Ultras are an excellent deal. The stock struts were wimpy during highway clover-ramp turns even when new. The Ultras are much more stable and resist leaning much better.

As far as strut dynos go, Bilstein offer the service for $25. Not bad, but considering what you pay and the time spent to take the assemblies out, you might as well use the $100 ($25x4) toward new struts.

99 Camrys may have problematic front strut mounts too. So you may have to replace them when you change the struts.

wp51dos wrote:

Reply to
johngdole

There was nothing wrong with the suspension system in the 99 Camry 6 cyl models.

Reply to
sharx35

From my reading he was not implying that there is an inherent problem with the 99 Camry but since this car has 160,000 miles there could very well be a mount problem.

Reply to
dbltap

Reply to
johngdole

Besides the age of the car on rubber parts the 97-01 strut mounts were affected by manufacturing defects as described by Toyota TSBs.

I thought they fixed the problems, but then similar TSBs showed up for

02-06 Camrys. So I've been recommending Monroe mounts that come with new bearings and lifetime warranty.

If you install new struts and rubber spring seats and then hear squeaks, cluncks and rattles from the front mount area then you know you have the defective mounts. (BTW, old sway bar bushings also can squeak). But if you don't, no need to spend more money.

dbltap wrote:

Reply to
johngdole
160000, don`t waste anyones time checking, replace them, you will notice a major improvement over the junk you now have, I guearnrtee.
Reply to
m Ransley

Heh, it would be some suspension that wouldn't show SOME wear at that mileage, eh!

Reply to
sharx35

Agreed. My 99 Camry 6 cyl. only has 102000 kilometres.

Reply to
sharx35

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