Still haven't found a way to preclude some of the draining oil to run onto parts of the frame & pan. Haven't tried removing filter from cold engine. Do dealers & oil changers use special baffles or shields? Newspaper & papertowels don't do a very good job.
Most wash it off with some water (and sometimes a cleaner or soap before the water). Some don't do anything and it will drip for awhile in your garage or parking space.
=================== If you have time, drain the oil from a hot engine, but let it drain for several hours or better still - over night. You'll find the oil stays cleaner longer this way also and the drips from the oil filter should be gone. Not best to drain from a cold engine because you want impurities suspended in warm oil that has been circulating prior to draining. On the four cylinder, the filter can be removed without a single drop of old oil. I also drain the transaxle and by letting it sit almost another quart drains out.
I always used some Spray and Wash followed by a water rinse. Cleaned up just fine.
I jam a big rag under the filter then unscrew it slowly. That catches most of it.
I'm not a big fan of letting it drain overnight. You never know if some bugs go inside your engine, and I think some moisture may get in. Anyway, my suggestion is to jack up your car, up and down, front and back to tilt. Some oil trapped on the corners will flow as you rock your car. But be very safe, this is not a very easy task and not popular among others but you can see oil flow out. good luck.
By the way, ever heard of the urban myth that coca-cola cleans oil? : )
======================= Makes sense. I use an enclosed garage and there are no other potential drivers to jump in and start the car with no oil.
I see. Is it a good idea to add engine flush oil to the engine before driving to the shop? Some adds kerosene to the oil before draining the oil. Is this advisable?
Nah. This is actually dangerous!
The oil change should be done with the engine warm. The oil is thiiner when warm and flows more freely. I added a flushing agent once and will Never do it again...my OP dropped by 1/3!
Oil has a siphoning quality...once the stream starts, most of the old oil follows. Any oil left behind is nigligible and certainly won't harm the engine. Following the Manufacdturer's recommendation as a MINIMUM, or changing every 3,000-3,500 miles is the best cure.
I have an '85 Corolla GTS with 258,000 miles, a Supra with 200,000 miles, and had an '85 Celica GTS with 254,000 miles an '83 Tercel wagon with
210,000 miles, and an '88 Honda with 212,000 miles, all with oil changes every 3,000-3,500 miles. Once in a while 4,000 or 5,000 miles.Wow, a car enthusiast, or just a big family? hehe, anyway besides the mileage manufacturers recommend changing every 6 months whichever comes first. Which is more harmful to the engine? higher mileage or the prolonging the life of the oil in months?
How about a k00k? It has caused trouble with my wives and my family. I don't care! I also have a '92 Grand Voyager AWD, but I wrecked the engine trying to change the water pump, so I got the Mazda.
I LOVE mid-80's Toyotas. They were a bunch of fun. I like cars in general, but Toyotas are my favorites.
I never went by months, but then again, I used to drive 35-40,000 miles a year, so I was changing oil at LEAST every 3 months or so!
I change the oil on my Mom's car once or twice a year. She only drives
4-6,000 miles a year (1986 Camry w/85,000 miles on it!). Doesn't appear to be any the less for wear...the thing runs like a top!I think the 80s Toyota are now the Lexus. My guess, is to build a car like those will be like the cost of a Lexus. Toyota had to reengineer in some way to keep their price low and still maintain good quality. But if your looking for the "80s" kind of car in this time. Lexus is the way to go.
==================== Generally not a good idea to add a flushing agent to oil since all modern oils already have detergent additives. Solvent flushes can break loose chunks of debris that can clog oil passageways. Second, you should never drive the car with the flushing agent, only idle then drain per instructions. See auto-rx.com for a safer way, but simply changing the oil much sooner may help a lot. Also, you're unlikely to get all the old flushing compound out of the oil. This is the primary reason I never tried this. For example on my four cylinder the drain and fill quantity for oil is 3.8 quarts, but the dry fill amount is 4.5 quarts, so you would be leaving some of the thin solvent flushing oil mixed with your lubricating oil for several oil changes.
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