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A/C compressor rebuild

Anybody has the access to the 10AP17C compressor rebuild instructions ?

Also I would like to know what is different in the 10AP17C compressor designed to work with R12 and the same 10AP17C designed to work with the R134a refridgerant, beside the obvious: top plate with different hose connectors/sockets ?

I had to replace a compressor in my R134a system and (by accident) I picked up a compressor with the same model number for R12. During the repair I have noticed, it had different fittings for R12, not R134a. I was wondering if - after disassembly, cleaning the old oil and reassembling it (with the fittings plate moved from the broken, R134a one) it would work fine with R134a refridgerant ? I know the oil is different, so it requires flush, but what about the other parts ? Should I replace all rubber o-rings, too ?

Reply to
Pszemol
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Any chance of simply getting the R134a compressor?

If you do change O-rings and flush, you might get a working compressor, but who knows how long it will last?

Just my $0.02

Michael

Reply to
mrdarrett

You are correct. The amount of work will not justify "savings".

One more question - do you guys know how much oil stays in the compressor during "normal handling" of it out of the vehicle ? Does it easily flow out when it is removed from the car and put on a shelf of a junkyard ? Or majority of oil stays inside ?

I am not sure how much new oil should I add there to make it happy. The manual states 140cc, but I assume this is for new, empty compressor. Adding this much to a used one, with some oil in there would be too much.

Reply to
Pszemol

My understanding is,(?) that oil should be added whenever you have a freon charge. Oil will not be left inside but will flow together with the freon as it escapes.

Reply to
EdV

============ I think you're going to need synthetic oil for 134a. My understanding of air conditioning is limited but I copied this from another group: ==============================

Correct. To do the conversion properly you have to take the compressor out, drain and flush out all the old mineral oil (till the end level of mineral oil is below roughly 1%), change the fill ports to the new Quick Connect style, and change all the seals and gaskets to be compatible with R-134. Then refill the compressor with a PAG (Polyalkaline Glycol) or POE (Polyolefin Ester) base synthetic oil. Usually easier to just swap in a factory rebuild compressor that has already been converted, and you get fresh piston rings too. And you need to change all the other refrigerant hoses and seals in the AC system also.

You can get away with just changing the compressor oil, adding the fill-port adapters and refilling with R-134 - for wide variables of the term "for a while". It's going to spring a leak somewhere.

To all the R-12 AC car owners out there: Just fix all the leaks and refill it with R-12 until you just can not get it anymore (or it hits $100 a pound) it's a whole lot easier and cheaper in the long run. When you scrap this car and get a new one, that one will use R-134 from the factory.

Reply to
Daniel

Yes, Freon has been used as a cleaning agent. It worked well. Also as a coolant for drilling holes and machining.

Reply to
toyomoho

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