A few more ? on my 88 Camry

THe engine runs good now, and replacing the oil pump w/crankshaft seal fixed the oil leak.

First, there is a sensor mounted on the coolant inlet manifold which the upper radiator hose connects to. It is mounted vertically on the top side. The connector is broken...working for now, but needs to be replaced. What is this sensor? (Or is it another temp switch?), so I can get a replacement ordered?

Second, I am a bit concerned about the temp gauge running more than mid-scale. It will run at the very top of the little thermometer symbol when cruising at 70 on the hwy....that is still a ways below the red zone. I have two good fans both blowing like crazy, a new water pump, and new thermostat which was tested in a pan on the stove, so I know it opens fully. The upper hose gets hot a minute or so after starting car, so I think coolant is circulating. I has new coolant, no leaks. Radiator appears to be in good condition, probably was replaced by former owner not long ago. Radiator/condenser air flow is not blocked. I had to replace the (gauge) temp. sender/sensor, the terminal broke off of it....so I thought perhaps its temp/resistance curve was not quite the same as OEM part, so I was not getting correct indication on the gauge. So with the car idling, I aimed my IR temp sensor gun at the thermostat housing and checked temp. It was cycling between about 205 and 214 degrees, as the fan cycled on/off. I was thinking it should be more like 195 at idle, am not sure. I think the actual coolant temp is slightliy higher, since the fans blowing on surface of the thermostat housing is bound to cool it slightly. Come to think of it, there is probably not supposed to be a significant difference between temp gauge at idle and at hwy speed if there is adequate cooling, right? If it is really running 10 degrees hotter than normal, what can I do or check? When I worked in the instrumentation field we had things called FLOWMETERS....no such luxury with auto engines!

Anyway is this a temp that is cause for concern?

I don't want to recharge the AC until I am sure I have the cooling system working normally, as the compressor (and heat from condensor) will put even more heat load on the engine.

Thanks, Geronimo

Reply to
geronimo
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Don't assume that it has been replaced have the radiator checked CHeck the parts diagram at your dealer for the connector piece

Reply to
sqdancerLynn

Most likely it's the temp sensor used by the ECU. Otherwise it's the temp sensor used by the temp gauge. Disconnect it and you'll find out. Either the temp gauge will stop working or the ECU will throw a code.

Unless it's something totally different ......

Reply to
Kurt Krueger

Yea it is the ECU temp sensor. thanks! Youre probably right about the radiator being clogged, will flow-check it! Thanks, Geronimo

Reply to
geronimo

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