Alternator of Battery?

First, make sure the alternator belt isn't slipping. If not, it might be a regulator problem, which would entail breaking down the alternator and installing a new regulator board, or getting a new/remanufactured alternator.

Do you own a voltmeter?

C4MRY_4_3V3R wrote:

====================================================== Try replacing the brushes. Most common problem on Denso alternators around 150,000 miles. Should run around $20 from the dealer and you're likely to wind up with a better alternator than one "rebuilt" under questionable conditions. A simple voltage reading at the battery terminals with the engine running should show the charging voltage. Multimeters are available inexpensively. Try part number 27370-35060 for the brushes, just check to make sure it fits your model year. Personally, I much prefer the batteries where you can check the fluid. Even though they're called "maintenance free" batteries, the caps can be pried off and you can check the state of charge of each cell with a hydrometer. EzRed makes a good inexpensive temperature compensated hydrometer. I like them because it can give an indication of a weak cell before the battery quits altogether and also can serve as a guide when charging the battery, plus I once had a Delco battery with the "green eye" actually explode under the hood a number of years ago. All I did was try to start the car. Can only imagine an internal short. General wisdom is that most batteries are soon due for replacement after three years. I use a product called "battery equalizer" from an online company called "Battery Stuff" that has worked well for me and others - especially if the battery sits unused. You should learn to read the manufacture date code on the side of a new battery to avoid buying one over six months old because internal sulfation can begin to reduce capacity.

Oh? Cite, please.

The voltage regulator in the alternator may be bad. Do check that your belt isn't slipping and make sure cables are tight and without corrosion.

Alternator brushes should be inspected at around 100 K miles. They should last at least 120K miles on normal duty so I'd change the brush assembly every other timing belt (based on the 60K mile schedule).

If the brush assembly is good (> ~2mm left) and the belt is properly tensioned, then pull the alternator and have it tested free at your local NAPA auto parts store (check your local stores).

Also, I change out the battery every 5 years on a preventative basis no questions asked. Cheap enough these days (~$39 for a Johnson Control at Walmart). I won't wait until a battery goes bad because it can strain the alternator (increasing output and heat), taking it out sooner.

C4MRY_4_3V3R wrote:

Unless the faulty battery has a shorted cell, the alternnator will not be overloaded by a bad battery. What usually happens, is the batteries internal resistance goes up rendering it incapable of supplying cranking current for long. Once the engine does start, the alternator sees the battery as a much less *current* sink, and simply cant force a lot of current into it for long. The batteries float voltage may well look normal, but it has little current-capability behind that voltage reading.

Jason

Wow, great advice from all sides! One thing I did notice just the other day is that when I hit the gas, the dash and healight spike up. I'm going to Strauss today to get a new battery, I'm sure mine is way past the 5yr mark. Got car from my bro but I don't think he ever changed the battery while he had it. I'll ask him anyways.

Thanks Again! T

Hey everyone, problem fixed. I went to my friend who's a wiz with cars, his phone was messed up which is why I couldn't get in touch with him. One look, he took me to a friend's shop that specializes on alternators and got me one for a deep discount. He replaced it for a very minor fee and now I'm on the road again....;)

Thanks for all the help guys!