boosting hp on a Camry?

I've got a 96 camry, and I'm wondering how I could boost horsepower by

10-20 hp or so. Would a muffler with a lower backpressure help? How about a modified air intake system?

Mike

Reply to
onehappymadman
Loading thread data ...

It's a four cyclinder? In any case those K&N style of intakes do little and sometimes reduce intake performance by not pulling in cool air as the existing intake does. Also there is no resonance baffle as in the OEM. These days intakes especially on economy engines like the 2.2L are tuned for good torque low-down and healthy high-end breathing. The exhaust is already the largest diameter pipe I've seen on a 2L engine. The rear-muffler looks like it came of a Mack truck. The only area I would mess with (if I so desired) would be the ex-manifold,..tho even then I'm not convinced much would be gained.

Really, those after-market items may look-good,..but that's where it ends in most cases. I f you want some serious neddy increase, check out a turbo-kit at Burien Toyota website.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

I am guessing you have a lot of miles on the engine... Have you tested the compression ?

Reply to
Pszemol

My 4-cylinder engine's got about 131,000 miles on it.

What exactly would testing the compression do? Would it mean I need new pistons...?

On that note, what other maintenance would increase hp / efficiency? I've done the usual (coolant, tranny, diff oil, regular oil+filter) but haven't done anything extreme with it.

Reply to
onehappymadman

I just googled the procedure... interesting. Basically remove all four spark plugs, and test the compression on each cylinder with a pressure gauge, right?

Is this something the dealer should do, or should I take the car to an independent mechanic?

Thanks,

Mike

Reply to
onehappymadman

When an engine loses sufficient compression to effect engine performance, and that comprssion loss is due to worn rings, the amount of engine fuming or "blow-by" would be very obvious and smelly.

To test for blow-by,..allow engine to heat up. While idling, remove the plain black hose from the cam-cover into the throttle body. At idle the PCV valve should be essentially inoperative,..but some folks like to remove its hose and block it off with a twisted end of a small rag. Fuming which is thick and continuous, especially "pulsating" indicates a bad set of rings on one or more pistons. A high mileage engine (100,000+ miles) will have *some light* fumiing,..which is to be expected. If there is none discernable,..that is a very good engine.

If the compression loss is due to a damaged valve, then the engine would probably cause an "engine" icon to light on the dashboard due to excessive mixture variation (goes lean due air or exhaust leakback on intake-stroke),..so if the engine is not using undue oil and idles smoothly, the rings and valves are probably OK. Sometimes an old cam-belt can stretch causing reduced performance or a muffler can block partially, but at least in the latter case, the loose muffler-baffles will make a lot of noise as exhaust pulses pass thru.

I find my '96 4 cyl has a definite "kick in" power surge particularly in second gear (manual) once revs hit 3700 thru to 5200. Its these indicators which tell you how the engine performance is going. Ashort dyno test will tell you whats going on. At the wheels the 4cyl should provide close to

100hp or 75kw at the rated engine rpm,..airconditioning off of course.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

The following is an opinion, based on personnal experience: I have used a good quality synthetic oil (engine & tranny) in my last 3 cars (90 Plymouth Grand Voyager, 93 & 98 Camrys) and a couple of BMW motorcycles (85 K100LT &

93 K1100LT) and always found the engine more eager to rev. Less friction. Slightly better fuel mileage. Better starting in winter (cars LOL). This opinion is shared by other people.
Reply to
Bassplayer12

Pszemol wrote: snip

I can't cite a source but, I think it's a proven fact synthetic oil adds appx 5% HP gain. If driven sensibly, this should equate to slightly better fuel mileage as well. Also proven to make engines last longer if changed on proper schedule. davidj92

Reply to
davidj92

Maybe for new engines... old engines, hold in compression by gunk from burning mineral oil maybe washed out with syntetic oil additives and the result might be worse than with mineral oil... It is not good idea to change oil in an old engine.

Reply to
Pszemol

If you switch to synthetic oil in an old engine and it starts leaking oil, which is very possible, chances are it's because gaskets are not doing their job but accumulated crud prevent the leak. I am not inventing this.

First generation synthetic oils for street use (1972) did cause gaskets to shrink, causing oil leaks. Not a good thing. Not too too long after that, synthetic oil makers started using seal swelling additives, with great results.

If an "old" engine is is good condition, nothing stops you to switch to synthetic oil. An engine flush before that is a good idea. I switched my 93 Camry to synthetics at 234,000 kms without a problem. I did the same thing last year in my 98 Camry with 197,000 kms without a problem. In both cases, there was a noticeable improvement in fuel consumption.

Now, concerning your previous post about a possible "placebo effect", I'll offer this experience I had with my 1985 BMW K100RT bike. Right after I switched to synthetic oil, I almost lost the grip on my handlebars. The engine was revving more freely. It stunned me!

Reply to
Bassplayer12

Pszemol wrote: sni[

Have to agree with you on that. I bought a used mower from a dealer and it came with fresh oil. At first change I switched to synthetic oil and it almost immediately started burning oil. Changed to an oil for high-mileage vehicles and smoking is almost completely gone.

Reply to
davidj92

A small engine mechanic once explained to me why I shouldn't use synthetics in my snowblower and/or my lawnmower but I can't remember why. BUT, let us not compare apples and oranges. Small engines and car engines are 2 different things. If we do, we are misleading the uneducated public. I DO NOT agree with the poster you are responding to.

Reply to
Bassplayer12

Oil is not only used for lubrication. It is also cooling. And cooling is greatly different in a lawnmower and a car.

Reply to
Pszemol

Pszemol wrote: snip

And how does this cooling affect the oil? If your theory is true then why would you use automotive engine oil in your lawnmower?

Reply to
davidj92

Oil is used for cooling the piston crown (from underneath) in a car-engine courtesy of the blow-hole in the conrod upper bearing housing. Mowers dont use this system or any other to cool the piston-crown which raises an interesting point (at least in my mind :-)

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

This is not "my theory"... Get any good book about car engines design and you will find all the functions engine oil is used for...

Reply to
Pszemol

Would 45+ years working on autos, trucks, lawn equipment, heavy equipment, motorcycles, aircraft and etc. qualify me as well as the "good book" you reference so I can understand all the functions of engine lubricating oil? The functions of engine oil was not the question or the thread, it was a reply I was trying to understand the gist of. Then, your reply doesn't follow the thread either, and as a courtesy I was trying to follow your reasoning but, it appears you have none and only want to appear "all-knowing". plonk

Reply to
davidj92

Some things "appear" different than they really are... ;-)

The reasoning was, and you did not cach it, pointing out that the lubrication is not the only role given for the oil to play in the engine. So the differences between engine designs in cars and lawnmovers (requiring different types of oil) could be related to something else than lubrication alone.

It is always only your choice who you read and who you avoid. Do not have to tell us about your choices.

Reply to
Pszemol

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.