After several years of letting the dealer look after the oil changes in our '95 Camry V-6 and being dinged exhorbitant rates for it ..and the inevitable upselling that went along with it, I decided to do the chore myself. It was pretty simple ..and really messy. The main problem was changing out the filter.
So I would like your input based on your experience with these cars, please.
Firstly, what type of filter wrench works best for you as the typical band-type is very difficult to use in such a tight spot (just under the exhaust manifold)?
And then there's the problem of spilling the filter oil down onto the engine/chassis components after it's unscrewed? Because of the restricted location, it is nearly impossible to tilt it up thus keeping the oil contained within the filter while removing it from the car.
Yes the position of the filter is an issue, seems like a drain valve or button or something would be helpful. Anyway, I'm an amateur and I use an adjustable gear-type clamp thing that fits on the end of a socket extension. As you turn the ratchet left/loose the clamps grab the filter - Sears has them. This type works on a variety of sizes/shapes - and not just oil filters either. A cap-type (that fits) would work well too. I just pack rags around the oil cooler and filter and let it all run out. Sometimes it makes $19.99 look like a bargain. Accepting oil changes is your first step in becoming "one" with your camry, grasshopper.
If you can let the oil drain overnight, you'll probably find the filter comes off without spilling a drop, and the fresh oil will stay cleaner longer. If you can't let it drain overnight, try letting it drain for a minimum of 30 minutes, then remove the filter. BTW, the dealer sells a filter wrench that works with a ratchet handle and extension - fits over the end cap and matches the indentations - also makes it easier to tighten correctly. Don't know about the six, but on the four cylinder, manual says tighten 3/4 turn, so a white line marked on the filter wrench allows one to turn just the right amount. ================================================ Most probably don't practice the fastidiousness I use to change engine oil, but thought I'd mention the extra services I do when changing oil. If you're doing that, you might want to consider additional work at the same time. Check the battery fluid level - add distilled water if necessary. Also check state of charge with temperature compensated hydrometer, and re charge if needed. Check air filter element. Blow out with compressed air / replace if needed. Use battery filling bulb to replace power steering fluid in the reservoir. Bleed brake fluid regularly, so instead of being dark, it stays amber color. Try:
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for power brake bleeding - one person professional results. Drain automatic transmission fluid regularly. Check final level with trans. hot after driving min. 10 miles. If you haven't done this before, you'll need a 10mm Allen head socket and new drain plug gasket. BTW, always replace the gasket on the engine oil drain plug with new also. Rotate tires and adjust pressure if needed. Check remaining brake lining thickness through inspection slot when wheels are removed. Check axle boots for incipient cracking, same for flexible brake lines. Use a small mirror to check back side of flexible brake lines. Check for oil leaks and identify source for correction. Check coolant level and condition. Drain radiator and replace as needed, using only Toyota red mixed with distilled water. Check belt tension, adjust as needed. Generally inspect engine bay, make sure everything is as should be. Most maintenance consists of checking and replacing fluids. Do that, and your Toyota should last a long, long, time.
I know what ya mean.. the measured amount taken out of the engine was a tad less than the amount I replaced; it didn't quite refill the old oil jug ..even taking into consideration that left in the filter. Anyway, it was fun driving around today with all the windows open and the heater on, as the engine block was burning off the spilled oil. lol Jack
I have an '85 Corolla with the filter in the same spot. I use an old leather belt...
Yeah. Good luck. On that same Corolla, I have a very well oiled subframe right under the filter. Just place the pan where it will catch most of it, and have the kitty litter nearby...
I use a cap type purchased from Toyota that fits the end of the filters and goes on a socket driver. I just put a container made for changing oil that is placed on its side for catching oil that I purchased from Pepboys.
On mine, supposed to be 2.5 qts. drains out - and that's about right. Last time refilling after draining hot over night, kept adding and adding - so measured the drained transmission fluid - 3 qts., 12 ozs.
- point being, if you drain over night, more comes out. Total dry fill capacity on the 4 cyl. A140E is 5.9 qts., so that's removing more than half. (57%) Not sure this is typical. Just returned from 200 miles driving, immediately drained around 3 P.M. and left until around 9 A.M. the following moring.
Do you have to drop the whole pan for the autotrans refill as in most NA cars ..or it there a drain plug? Wait.. I would imagine the whole pan must be dropped otherwise, how could ya get to the AT filter? Jack
I can change my oil very fast and without any mess in my 97 Camry 4. First I get it warmed up with a short drive. Pull in the garage and remove the oil plug. I pull the dipstick and oil cap and wipe them off. I put a rag around the bottom of the oil filter pushed tight against the block. I let the motor sit for 30 minutes (good time to vaccum the car, check tire pressure and clean the windows as well as top up other fluids) then remove the filter using a wrench that fits over the end of the filter that takes a socket wrench to turn it. I spin it off real fast and rarely get a drip. I paint a white line on the filter wrench to show me how far I am tightening it. I also wrote 14mm on it so I would not forget the drain plug size. I use a funnel made for radiators(small yellow one you can get at Advance Auto) that fits the valve cover perfectly. I buy the gallon size oil jugs and have a little left over for topping up between changes that I put in a quart bottle, then put the used oil in the one gallon container and take it to back to Advance Auto for recycling.
There is no filter - only a metal screen, which according to Toyota, does not require replacement. I suppose you could change it or clean it if you like, but if the fluid is clean, should not be necessary. There are magnets on the inside of the pan that can be cleaned, but there are three good sized magnets, and they ought to hold a lifetime supply of filings - I'd only pull the pan if you're replacing a leaking gasket - otherwise, drain plug should suffice.
I've got a '99 V6 and have the same troubles with the oil filter. Used to have a 4cyl and changing the oil on that one was a snap with very very little mess. Best advice I have is drain all your oil, pull your pan over under the filter and then unscrew it. I can usually just use my hand to unscrew the filter. I wrap a towel around my arm and go for it. If you need to wrench it though get the type that fits the end of a socket wrench. They work well and fit most brands.
As you may have guessed, I'm not familiar with the ATF change process in this car ..only on NA vehicles. What is the procedure? Do you refill through the dipstick hole in the engine compartment or is there a special fill hole on the transmission and accessed under the car? Also, is the differential also emptied and filled the same way and through a shared hole? Jack
or is there a special fill hole on the transmission and
No - not for the automatic transmissions
On my 1994 four cylinder there is a separate differential housing, and it is filled separately. You need to check your specific model. Generally earlier four cylinders have them, later models and six cylinder, generally not. Mine has a label on the automatic transmssion dipstick, warning not to overlook filling the differential. Haynes manual for under $20 has pictures. There's a second drain plug on the bottom, behind the drain plug on the trans. pan. You'll have to lift the car to see the fill hole apx.
12" up from the bottom on the back of the diff.. Best idea seems to be to fill with a funnel and tubing from the top. I'm going to try that next time - have been filling with a suction pump from beneath and while it works, tends to be messy. Diff. also takes ATF. Fills like a standard transmission, until fluid runs out the fill hole.
Anybody ever cut open an oil filter to see what and how much it's catching? I think I'll do that for my normal oil change and compare to one after "auto-rx"...though I can't help thinking that all the filter is catching is the extra oil additive itself -- not the sludge and varnish it claims! Anyone have any real-life before and after stories?
ive removed thousands of these v-6 filters.. use a 3/8 ratchet, 3 inch extension and a craftsman oil filter remover. take the filter off very slowely! dont let go of the filter. good luck!
I have a 2004 Toyota Camry and yesterday I changed the oil but couldn't find the oil filter Does anyone know the exact location of the oil filter and if it is possible to change it without jacking up the car and pulling it from below. I drained the oil and put 10/40 in it even though the oil cap said 5/30 do you think it makes much of a difference here in Texas?
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