Camry Power Door Lock Problem

Does the group know of any difference between the driver's door key lock and the passenger door key lock for an 1989 Camry?

I have been having a recurring, intermittent, problem with my power door locks not working. Part of the problem was the 'broken wire in hinge' issue - previously mentioned in this group. I had that fixed

- but I still have an intermittent problem with the locks.

This AM, the power door locks failed to work yet again. I was outside the car & trying to lock the doors with my recently installed wireless remote. (This remote is a replacement for a previous wireless remote. The power door lock problem was there with that other remote as well

- so I don't believe the remote causing the problem.) I should add re: the wireless remote - we even tried removing the first remote for a few days to see if the problem would go away before we installed the new remote. The problem stayed - throughout.

This AM - pressing the remote button did nothing. I then went to the passenger side door and noticed if I used the door key lock - it would only lock & unlock the passenger door.

I then went to the drivers door and when I used the door key lock - all the doors immediately locked - and at that point the remote also began locking and unlocking the doors. This is a consistent 'fix' for the problem - I have yet to run into a situation where using the driver's door key did not 'reset' the problem.

So it looks like there is something pointing to the drivers door key lock (or the wiring leading to / from it) as being some sort of 'master reset' device or whatever.

When I looked at a Chilton Manual wiring diagram for the Camry - it looked to me like all the door lock/unlock devices (both door key locks and both lock/unlock buttons inside the car) were linked into a common wire that went through the master switch (the part with the power window & door lock buttons in the driver's door) and then to the power door lock control relay.

We have already tried swapping out the master switch with another one and found the problem persisted - so we know the problem is not in the master switch.

So looking back at the driver door key lock - any idea what makes it 'different' from the passenger door key lock, the interior door lock switches or the wireless remote (which hooks into the wiring for the door lock circuit).

Thanks, Cindy

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Just a side thought. My new Mercedes senses when the remote wireless key is sending out the wrong code. It won't open the doors with the wireless, but if the driver side door is unlocked with a physical key shortly after using the wrong wireless key, the car will then respond to the wrieless.

Could be something similar. If you have an operators manual check if this isn't happening.

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luckygohappy

Bad Spot in the motor that runs the lock mech.

It is true that the wiring is "one wire" to the switch but it is possible to wire around that if a competent installer is used.

however, the problem described in your post, indicates that the motor has a bad spot in it, and when you move it with the physical motion of the key cylinder, you are basically moving the motor just enough to get past the bad spot, or it makes the windings in the motor temporarily have continuity and allows proper operation til it "opens" again.

this theory works in most applications similar to this one , until you get into high end , vaccum operated door locks and such.

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