hi, i have a 96 toyota camry LE with 160k miles.
When should i get my oil change? When do i have to change the battery? When should i change the timing belt? Wat other maintenance do i have to do? I changed my tires, and brakes last week, when i brake, it makes a squeaky sound? is this normal?
3K-5K miles. Same for oil filter.
Batteries usually last about 3-5 years. Make sure you check the water level and fill with distilled water if necessary. Be careful because the battery fluid contains acid, so if it overflows that is not good.
About every 90K miles. I would let it go until it breaks on that car, because it is a non-interference engine (no damage to engine when it breaks.
Change transmission fluid, radiator fluid, and air filter every 30K miles. You can check and change the air filter yourself.
Depends on what kind of brake pads were used and whether the rotors were turned (for front disk brakes).
If the owner's manual is still with the car it'll have all the basic maintenance stuff in it.
If not, I'd go to an auto parts store and buy a Haynes manual. Probably the best 10 or 15 bucks you'll spend. It gives good coverage on what you need to do and when it needs done.
The manual will say replace the timing belt at 60k miles, but I'd go by what Mark A said.
Unless you don't want to get stranded or run over when the timing chain goes! I hate for it to happen in rush hour with 4 lanes going 80 MPH around you!
If you don't use OEM yota brake pads -- get used to the squealing.
How much do you think a 1996 Camry with 160K miles is worth? The cost of replacing the timing belt is a significant expense relative to the value of that particular car. In addition, there is about a 25% chance that the mechanic (even a dealer) will FUBAR the timing belt replacement and the car will never be the same.
yeah, you'll be stranded if it breaks; but what was suggested is reasonable.
oh, and you don't have to have 'yota oem brake pads to avoid squealing. there are aftermarket versions.
Well, using stripped down model standards (which is unlikely, but for sake of argument), lets say the car is worth about $1800 (probably more, but err on caution).
My mechanic charges about $220 for a timing belt -- my toy dealer charges $180, but by the time they convince you about all the other repairs they claim you need....
So, there is a chance the belt could break just as you are gliding past a Toy dealer, but odds are pretty good that isn't going to happen. Instead, it will probably happen on a rainy night in a "no cell phone service" area.
As the guys on Car Talk radio say, it's the cheapskate that pays the most. Pretend the previous owner changed the timing belt at 60K, 120K and now it would be due at 180K.
I have never had a timing belt replacement screwed up -- even the one time I did it myself ;>)
Your best bet (because reading your post, it doesn't seem like you know anything about cars), is to ask around with friends, family co-workers, etc. and find a good local mechanic -- hey it might even be a local toyota dealer, it happens sometimes.
Then take the car to them and entrust it to their care. If you have a good shop, they'll only do what's needed -- when it is needed.
If you have nowhere else to look, you can always try the MechaniX files at Car talk --
Do you have ANY kind of history on the car? They now come with maintenance books, is there one in the glove box? If so, just follow the regular maintenance if it has been kept up. If not, or you DON'T have any records at all, have someone take a look at it; a truted mechanic, a knowledgable friend, etc.
I would change the oil immediatley if you don't know the maintenence or if there is no sticker in the window, or at a multiple of 3,000. The last change would have been 159,000, so look at it.
For the tranny, what does the fluid look like? If it is red, then normal maintenance has probably been done, if not, it will look brown. DON'T FLUSH IT!!! Have the screen cleaned and then just refilled. Flushing a tranny that has not been maintained and has brown fluid will most likely kill it.
Have the brakes checked for pad and rotor thickness. Usually rotors need to be 10mm thick of thicker, pads should be evenly worn and about 1/4" of lining or more. If you have drum rears, this is a pain...
Grease and lube anything with a grease fitting; throw enough in so the old stuff comes right out. Get some Litihium grease for the hinges and latches.
Also, what do the tires look like? Are there any 'bumps' or 'shimmies' going down the road? These can be signs of bad tires, brakes or ball joints.
The most expensive thing mentioned above is the brakes; all the other things should run well under $200, even from a Toyota dealer. Or, you could pay them for a 125 point check, the same check they do for a 'Certified' used car.
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