Changing spark plugs quote

Yeah, I think we charge about 1.2 hrs of labor for the front drive V6s. Throw in the price of plugs, and you're probably about there. That rear bank is a real bitch to work around. As far as the shift lever getting corroded, I don't know what you're talking about. Are you having shifting problems? Manual or auto?

Dealer prices are usualy overpriced, shop.

All,

On the same note, can anybody detail the procedure for changing spark plugs on 1999 Camry 4Cyl? Is it easy to do?

Thanks

1. Remove spark plug wires. Keep track of which wire goes on which spark plug.
2. Remove spark plugs with spark plug socket.
3. Demand wife serve you beer because you are doing extremely complicated, thirst-inducing car repair work.
4. Screw new spark plugs into the holes where you got the old ones out of.
5. Bask in the glory of saving yourself in dealership service fees.

For (2), you mean use a deep-socket, with extension, right?

You forgot:

2.5. Put anti-seize compound on new spark plugs. (This cheap compound will make it easier to remove the plugs next time they need replacing. And this is best done before drinking the beer.) 4.5. Put spark plug wires back on.

My bad... meant to say, put anti-seize compound on the *threads* of the new spark plugs. Not just anywhere on the plugs. :)

Make sure you buy the right spark plugs for your car, with the right spark plug gap.

If you use Toyota wires - which you should - they're numbered. Use of a torque wrench is recommended - you're working with aluminum threads. Basically, changing spark plugs on the four cylinder is easy. Handle the wires gently, if you yank on them they can be damaged. IIRC the socket is 5/8" -- that was my biggest problem the first time - couldn't find a metric spark plug socket. Also, you should use Denso or NGK plugs - follow your owner's manual. Other brands have been known to cause problems in the Camry.

Use compressed air to clean out the recess before you remove the plugs, if wire plug caps have any deterioration replace wires or arching may easily occur.

Also, keep the sensor-safe anti-seize compound about 2-3 threads away from the tip.

I'd torque them to 13 lb-ft using a torque wrench. Harbor Freight has them on sale for $12.99 I think for the next couple of weeks.

98 uses the waste spark system, so on one plug the spark jumps from the center to the ground electrode and on the other from the *ground* to the center electrode! Worst design nobody uses any more (including Toyota). For this reason use only recommended plugs.

The Bosch plug, which works very well on other engines because it spreads the flame flat towards the multiple ground electrodes, won't work on this engine. Because when the spark jumps to the center electrode, it covers the center electrode with metal from the ground and fouls it.

Now, NGK (but not denso) says the Iridium is a proper application for the engine in the catalog. It's an excellent plug. Has anyone tried it in a waste spark system?

About the shift lever, to make a long story short:

I was in a parking lot and got in my car. Started it up. When the engine is warm and you restart it, it sometimes idles very low, very close to stalling. I put it in reverse, backed up about 10 feet and it stalled. I put the lever back in park and restarted the car. Then I COULD NOT budge the lever after this. I was stuck in the parking lot. It just wouldn't budge. I restarted, wiggled the steering wheel, moved the car (as best I could) forward and backward, but I could not get the lever, actually the button on the lever, to go in all the way so I could move the shifter.

After about 6 or 7 minutes of wiggling, shaking, gyrating, etc., etc. I gave up and went inside the store I was just in, which happened to be an auto parts store. They called a local repairman and couldn't get him on the phone. So after 5 minutes one of the employees went out with me to see if he could push the car maybe to move the transmission or whatever? I got in, started the car and the lever worked perfectly.

It has gotten stuck before about 4 or 5 times, but it only got stuck for

1 or 2 seconds. This time it got stuck and wasn't moving.

I described this to the Toyota shop and later tht day they told me the lever was corroded underneath and had to be lubed and repaired.

Thanks

Sorry, it's automatic.

Is it *only* the '98 that has this "waste spark system"?