connected battery wrong

ok I know I messed up and it will probrably going to cost me alot of money but my 96 camry wouldn't start so I took the battery into the house to charge it. when I reconected it (it was dark ) and I connected the pos. to the neg. and the neg to the pos. after realising my boo boo I reconected it the right way but had no power in the car . I recharged the battery and checked the fuses. there were 3 fuses burnt, one 100amp one 20 anp and one

30 amp. I changed them and tried to start the car but it would turn over no prob. but woouldn't start. I rechecked the fuses and the 30 amp one was burnt again this one is for the (multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system,starting system )everytime I try to put another fuse in it blows right away. A guy told me I might have fried my alternator so he said this might be causing the short so he said to disconect all wires going to the alternator and then try to put the fuse back in. I tried this and still the fuse burnt. can anybody give me anymore advice (besides don't conect the battery that way again)on what I can try to troubleshoot before I take it to the shop and they soke me dry.
Reply to
nad441
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Any decent design system would put in protection against reverse-polarity and it maybe the EFI system has what is called "sacrificial diode protection". This is essentially a crowbar system where high volts or reverse volts cause these power-diodes to conduct to gound thereby deliberately blowing the supply fuses to ptotect the expensive EFI/ECU and peripherals. Once blown, these diodes have to be removed to remove the short they represent across the battery supply.

You're alternator may well be stuffed as the power-diode packs would have been blown due to being forward biassed to ground thru the field-winding. Fuses, unfortunately offer too slow a protection in most cases ie they take

100msecs to blow while it takes less than a msec for solid-state devices to fry in that event you describe.

You will need to take the car to Toyota or get your hands on some spare modules from a wrecker and start replacing things,...if you have some experience with electronics, you can ascertain a lot with a simple multimeter on Ohms range. Disconnect the battery- remove the blown fuses,.. and connect the mmeter from each fuseholder (test both terminals) to ground and look for shorts (less than 200 ohms to ground) If the short is still there, replacing the fuse will achieve nothing more than another blown fuse when you reconnect the battery . You need to identify which part of the car's system is in question and replace it.

Sorry it sounds like a nightmare situation... Jason

Reply to
Jason James

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I would agree with the conclusion of the above poster but I think you have damaged the computer.

Reply to
rogerblake

well just got the car back from the garage and it turns out the only thing i fried was my remote car starter(thank god) thanks to all those who posted with help.

Reply to
nad441

Excellent,..great news!. The expensive units must have simple diode isolation in the event of reverse-polarity,...good to know.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

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