I've never used the ramps so this is conjecture. Seems like if you got ramps front and rear that could work. I would not use ramps in front and two jacks for the rear wheels - or jacks at all for the rear wheels with ramps in front. Either ramps all around or jack and jack stands all around. I use jack stands all around and this is the method I always see described in repair manuals. I always go _very_ carefully - remembering you're balancing apx. one and a half tons in the air above your body. If you use a hydraulic floor jack, lift at the subframes, then secure with two jack stands in front and two jack stands in the rear. With jack stands rated 2 tons or higher, you should be covered. ============================ earlier relevant post: ============================ snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote: Tried that... finally got the "combination" to work. Unfortunately, when under the car, I still was not able to get enough force on the combination wrenches to turn the nut (very awkward to try it under the car, with limited room!) . . . Ah well... perhaps this one *is* best left to the dealer to do. ============================= There's a secret. You need to lift the car to get enough room to get at that fill plug. Once you do that, there's enough working room to remove it fairly simply. Since I'm always doing other work on the car when changing the differential fluid, and I also rotate the tires every 5,000 miles, when changing the oil, I lift both front and rear - makes access to the differential relatively easy. Here's how you lift the car. You need one or two hydraulic floor jacks and a stable floor. I have a garage with smooth concrete. With asphalt on a warm day, or a sloping surface, you could have a problem. Since the car weighs roughly 3,000 lbs., you need a 2 ton floor jack, plus some sturdy jack stands. Those 2 ton floor jacks are fairly inexpensive. I bought two long time back, one stopped working after a while, and I replaced it with a 3 ton, just for an extra margin of safety, but the 2 ton is smaller and fits under the rear of the car much better. First locate the structural cross members of the frame - large welded steel stampings that run sideways. In front the engine mounts are attached to them, in the rear the suspension locating arms are attached. These box frame members are strong enough to easily support the weight of the car. If you look carefully, you'll see a spherical "bump" front and rear, at the center, and this is where you place the hydraulic floor jack. Then lift the front of the car until the tires are off the ground. Place your jack stands on either side of the floor jack and slowly lower the floor jack until the force is evenly distributed between them. If you only have one floor jack, now you move to the rear. For the rear jack stands, place a 12" 2x4 piece of lumber on top to spread the load under the side jacking points where you have spot welds on the sheet metal, then lift from the center of the rear frame member, set the jack stands, and lower the jack to evenly distribute the load. You fill now find working under the car _much_ easier. I am not responsible for your injury or death, however this method has worked well for me.