EGR Valve 2000 Camry

Hi,

There are not 4 EGR valves as such, but there are 2 or 3 other valves associated with the EGR valve, which is a cylindrical object with a flat top and shaped like a traditional flying saucer, about 3" in diameter. It is situated at the right upper rear of the engine, and will have three small diameter rubber hoses attached. Right next to it should be another similar shaped valve, which is the EGR vacuum modulator valve.

Some types of these in Toyotas can be dismantled and cleaned.

Geoff

Yes, it is. Far as I know, that is the only EGR valve. There is an EGR vacuum modulator (controls vacuum to the EGR valve based upon engine demand, ie. manifold vacuum), and the thermal vacuum valve (allows the engine to reach operating temperature before supplying vacuum to the EGR valve), but should only be one EGR valve metering exhaust gas (EGR - exhaust gas recirculation). Seems as though you paid your money, and your problem was resolved. Wouldn't that be the end of the story? (apart from the pricing at the dealer, which tends to be on the high side - but they should have the expertise and diagnostic equipment to repair more quickly and effectively, so you need to decide_before_you take it in, which service department to select.) Personally, I much prefer doing my own mechanical work, taking my time, cleaning and inspecting as I go. I remember taking in the '77 Toyota truck to the dealer for a very difficult to diagnose (and loud) backfiring problem on shutdown. Their quote was around $250 to replace some air control valves in the emission control system. Wound up installing them myself for around $50 in parts - was in a somewhat awkward location though. Discovered as a bonus, the threads were completely stripped on the distributor hold down bolt - clinging to the bolt when removed - and it wasn't that way before I brought it in, and they completely denied responsiblity even though checking ignition timing is a logical first step in diagnosing backfire condition. So I installed an oversize bolt, it's been fine ever since, and I still feel the diagnostic cost tot he dealer was reasonable because the problem was long standing, difficult to locate, and I was unable to find it on my own. Sounds a little like your situation. If your problem is successfully resolved, why not move ahead and just put the experience behind you? From what I've heard, that TVV replacment is not uncommon for your model year.

Geoff,

The 2 cylindrical object with a flat top and shaped like a traditional flying saucer that you are talking about look like the the 2 cylindrical object in this pic?

I think the one to the left is the EGR Vacuum and the right is the EGR valve, rite?

Thanks.

Thanks for your feedback.

If that is the EGR valve like most people agree upon and it was suppose to be replaced by the dealer, then I doubt that he did it. I took pics of the EGR valve before i put it into the shop. Thus, I have a bigh scretch on the Original EGR valve and after changing it, it still have the big same scretch on it. I think they either forgot to change it or just reset the check engine light.

I did try to change the EGR myself but was unable to get my tools under the manifold to undo one of the screws, so i cleaned the air throttle instead and put everything back together.

Thanks for the input.

Well I understand Toyota EGR valves very well since I used to be a California Smog Tech and had to fix alot of Toyotas. I will explain the system to you for your education. The EGR valve feeds back exhaust into the incoming air of the engine to reduce burnable air gas mixture so pressure in combustion chamber reduced so not so much nitrogen oxide produced. Toyota EGR valve has one hose going to it. This hose when it has vacuum opens the EGR valve, otherwise it is normally closed. You can test valve by pumping it up with a hand vacuum pump, it should hold vacuum otherwise it is leaking and needs to be replaced. The modulator valve has 4 hoses going to it. One is from exhaust gas, two from ported vacuum from throttle body, and one to EGR valve. When throttle valve opens off idle a hole is uncovered sending vacuum to modulator, if exhaust pressure is high enough (enough load) then this vacuum goes through modulator to open EGR. If you open throttle more to uncover second hole this vacuum passes through modulator regardless of Exhaust pressure to open EGR valve. Some earlier toyotas had valve to prevent EGR valve from working by blocking vacuum or shutting off one way valve. But by 2000 the only system I saw is a computer controlled air bleed that prevents EGR valve from working by bleeding air into hose going to EGR and preventing vacuum in this hose. There is sometimes a temperature probe with a wire to computer on intake side of valve so computer can see if valve is actually opening (it will record a temperature rise with EGR open). Check engine lights for EGR failure on Toyotas is very common, it often doesn't cause driveability problems. Often the passages in intake or exhaust get plugged and also I've seen EGR valves plugged open. Often I removed valve cleaned out passages with wire and carburetor cleaner and reused old gasket and all was good.

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (skewe) wrote in message news:...

Hi,

Yes, that's it, at the back next to the firewall. I stuffed it up before, the item with 3 hoses is the modulator, and the EGR valve has one, as Ed says. Apologies to all.

Geoff

Underhood picture looks typical - just thought I'd mention, you should be changing the brake fluid, power steering fluid and coolant - none of them look right. Brake fluid is dark - should be amber. Power steering fluid is dark - should be red (unless the plastic tank is discolored - fluid inside could be OK, but check), coolant is clear - should be light red. Original fill on power steering fluid and some replacements can be amber,but definitely should not be black - Toyotas can show expensive leaks in the power steering rack after some time, and keeping fluid clean can only help.