To change the timing belt. I've always done it with an impact wrench. Now I've outsmarted myself. The wrench can't take it off. The book says there's an access to the torque converter to jam a screwdriver. Damned if I can find it. What I see is a thin metal plate which seems to be between the engine and transmission. Is there access? I have the '97 Camry 4 banger.
=== You just need a more powerful impact wrench. It's only supposed to be tightened to 80 ft. lbs. Chances are the last mechanic over tightened it. Easiest way is to take it to a shop, have them loosen it, re tighten without over tightening and give it back to you. Should be an inexpensive and quick procedure, mostly just charge to put it on the lift. Some have also reported success by using a breaker bar wedged securely against the frame or ground, pull a fuse to prevent starting, then briefly touch the starter. Also best if you can calm down prior to continuing work.
Does the pulley have any holes or slots? I hold the pulley on my '83 with a couple of bolts through a metal bar. That pulley has spokes, so I just jam the bolts into the spokes. The metal bar has a hole drilled through for the crank bolt socket.
I also second that "more powerful" impact wrench idea. My holder bar failed once on an MR2 and it took a 3/4" 750 ft. lb. impact wrench to remove it. It was interesting, a smaller impact wrench spun the whole engine. The big dude backed out the bolt without moving the crank at all.
My solution requires some prep, but you'll have a wonderful tool that will last forever: Buy ~20" of 2" black iron pipe. In one end cut two notches sufficiently large for the heads of aux. bolts that screw into the crankshaft pulley. Cut two plastic or plywood disks, outside diameter just under 2" and inside diameter slightly larger than your 1/2" socket extensions. Slide the extension into the two separated disks, and the disks into the 2" pipe. Position the socket on the crankshaft bolt, centering the whole contraption, and slide the notches over the two aux. bolts.
With a pipe wrench on the pipe, the crankshaft cannot turn backwards and there's no unbalanced stress to break anything. Now you can remove the bolt safely with a breaker bar.
H.K.
Ditto here, except I used scrap (but solid) wood. Easier to work with and drill the socket hole. Used 3/8" SAE grade 8 bolts through the crank pulley spokes. Looked like a modified cam pulley holder. Maybe a generic cam holder would work, anyone tried it?
In my experience, the break-free torque on the 4cyl is about the same as a wheel lug nut (spec'ed tightening at ~80 lb/ft). Nothing to it. But if you live in the salt belt and the bolt seized on there over the years it may be a different story.
The holder allows you to tighten the crank bolt to the proper spec afterwards. There are horror stories on the V6 about improperly tightened crank pulley. Then again the 4cyl may be more forgiving. Dunno because I tightened it with a $14.99 Harbor Freight 1/2" torque wrench to 80 lb/ft. ;)
LOL, this is exactly how I used to remove the crank pulley bolt on old
2L Pintos. I'd rather not admit how I figured out how easy this was...Ed
Impact, Impact, Impact. Once you go Impact you'll wonder how you got along with out it. Yes they are expensive but a good impact gun will get you out of a lot of tight spots(or bolts).
I would like to see a drawing or picture of that. Can't quite picture how the pipe is positioned.
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