Is it difficult to replace Struts?

Hi. 1993 Camry V6. 72k miles. Ride seems to be getting "harder"...especially on surface streets with patches, holes, cracks....

Seems to "fall into the holes" harder than it used to.

Freeway driving is just fine.

So, new struts are indicated????

How hard a job is it? I don't have access to a lift; but have the usual array of hand tools.

I imagine I'd need an alignment afterward...I would have a shop do that.

Is this a job I should consider doing myself? Front and Rear?

Genuine Toyotas parts or aftermarket??

Do you think it will make a difference or am I just wasting my money?? After all...I realize it's not a new car anymore.

Thanks, Chuck

Reply to
c
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PITA. If you WANT to take this on, get a GOOD spring compressor, not those two little 'hooks' that grasp the spring with two little fingers. I have actually seen one of these fly off and go right through a cinderblock wall

10 feet away! (Thank God it went in the opposite direction!)

Also, if the brake line is attached to the strut like on some older models, you'll have to bleed the brakes when you're done, too.

For replacements I usually use KYB or Bilsteins. I like the KYBs better.

For springs I would go Genuine Toyota or a good aftermarket like Eibach. Moogs are cheap, but you'll be replacing them sooner than either of the others.

Usually a 'bounce' is a shock/strut, whereas a 'crunch' is springs. Doesn't seem like a 72k car would need springs unless you're playing Ivan Stewart with the thing!

Reply to
Hachiroku

Get to know your local junkyard dealer. I replaced my 99 Camry struts with one from a 2001 Camry with only 30K miles. Call around and ask the junkyard for the struts.

As far as doing the work yourself, it's not worth it to be decapitated if the springs slip. Get a pro to install it plus you'll need to have a alignment done afterwards. My Camry runs smoothly like new now!

Good luck!

Reply to
david

Get a pro to do it, yes they often go very hard when bad vs the usual soft associated with leaking. Look at your tires for alignment issues, car places will sell you a washer dryer and coffee maker if they can.

Reply to
m Ransley

Well I must be the diehard in the group. I had the dealer do this once, but if I go back in to change the strut mounts or springs, I'll be doing it myself as a result of confidence gained replacing the passenger side drive axle. Just follow the steps in the factory service manual. Got most of my special tools at Harbor Freight since I plan on using them only rarely.

600 ft. lb. chromed air gun (Harbor Freight) with 30mm impact socket from Kragen for the axle nut were the primary items that made the axle replacement possible. Already had 5 gallon air compressor ($99 - Kragen). Also acquired a tie rod end puller for $6.95 (Harbor Freight) which was very easy to use. Seems like every time I do work on the car where a prior mechanic had been there, I find something not quite right and I correct it when I find it. (defective bearing lock bolt on the axle for example, not replaced with the prior boot replacement) So I feel doing the work myself is helpful because I know it has been done correctly and completely and carefully, rather than by someone rushing through it to get to the next job and increase their income by reducing time required for a fixed rate quote. I would use the "clamshell" type spring compressor from Harbor Freight online:
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always use genuine Toyota parts only, but you can find themdiscounted online, or try using those prices to price match at thelocal dealer with the parts Manager.
Reply to
Daniel

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