Is this possible????

I'm dealing with the classic catalytic converter issue on my 2.4 L

2002 Camry. Check engine P0420 code. Dealer quoted $700.00 for replacement. (Way out of warranty @ 113,000 miles).

I called Meineke Car Care and they quoted me $159.06 installed (aftermarket). I realize there would be a price discrepancy between OEM and dealer labor, but that's huge! What am I missing here?

Reply to
Ike
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Are you talking about a replacement of the catalytic converter only, parts and labor? I would verify that with the Toyota Service Manager who gave you the quote.

You might want to get the part number from the Toyota parts department and ask them for price of the parts. Also, be sure to comparison shop among different Toyota dealers.

Shops like Meineke are notorious for telling you that you need a lot of extra parts replaced once they get the car on the lift.

Reply to
Mark A

Reply to
BigJim

But, is the alternator as good as the $350 one from the dealer? You saved $200 for now. How about in a year? Did the Advance Auto alternator come with a lifetime warranty? Even if it came with a warranty, how will you feel if it fails in a year? I think the dealer was over priced, but it has been my experience that some of the Advance replacement alternators (I assume a rebuild) are junk. I hope you got a good one.

Ed

Reply to
C. E. White

I've had the same problem with my Camry (2002 LE with 114,500 miles). The check engine code P0420 came on around 90,000 miles. You've probably noticed that the code comes and goes, at least mine does, occasionally it will stay off for a couple hundred miles and then it will pop back on.

As to how to handle it, I've basically ignored it. Not the best solution I know, but when I first looked at replacing it there were two issues. First, replacing the part is expensive, around $1,000. Meineke may have quoted you that price, but they're just plain wrong. The OEM part is $400 and an aftermarket part will probably give you some problems later on. I know a guy who would replace the part for just the cost of the OEM part (free labor), but I stayed away, for the second reason. Second, why did this happen? A cat convertor is a lifetime part on just about every car. I still haven't figured out why the code is coming up. Is it because the cat needs to be replaced? Or is one of the sensors shot, such as the oxygen sensor, which might cause the P0420 code? I've read in some other forums that even after replacing a cat convertor several Camry owners had the code come back on after only a few months. If so, replacing it is just a waste of money. When I asked the Toyota dealer about what to do short of changing the cat, he told me use higher octane gas--which I did for a month, until I read that using higher octane gas would only make the problem worse!

So my solution right now is to just be more strict with regular maintenance doing things like oil changes, filters, etc--even sooner than recommended. If you figure out something better please pass it along. I have to pass an emissions test for my state in about 10 months, and I might be forced to replace the cat then if the car fails the test.

Reply to
patrick.schaefer

I've had the same problem with my Camry (2002 LE with 114,500 miles). The check engine code P0420 came on around 90,000 miles. You've probably noticed that the code comes and goes, at least mine does, occasionally it will stay off for a couple hundred miles and then it will pop back on.

As to how to handle it, I've basically ignored it. Not the best solution I know, but when I first looked at replacing it there were two issues. First, replacing the part is expensive, around $1,000. Meineke may have quoted you that price, but they're just plain wrong. The OEM part is $400 and an aftermarket part will probably give you some problems later on. I know a guy who would replace the part for just the cost of the OEM part (free labor), but I stayed away, for the second reason. Second, why did this happen? A cat convertor is a lifetime part on just about every car. I still haven't figured out why the code is coming up. Is it because the cat needs to be replaced? Or is one of the sensors shot, such as the oxygen sensor, which might cause the P0420 code? I've read in some other forums that even after replacing a cat convertor several Camry owners had the code come back on after only a few months. If so, replacing it is just a waste of money. When I asked the Toyota dealer about what to do short of changing the cat, he told me use higher octane gas--which I did for a month, until I read that using higher octane gas would only make the problem worse!

So my solution right now is to just be more strict with regular maintenance doing things like oil changes, filters, etc--even sooner than recommended. If you figure out something better please pass it along. I have to pass an emissions test for my state in about 10 months, and I might be forced to replace the cat then if the car fails the test.

Reply to
patrick.schaefer

Reply to
BigJim

True enough, but again, when it fails when you are 300 miles from home, how are you going to feel?

I don't understand the mindset that is willing to justify spending thousands extra for a Toyota because they are alleged to be reliable, and then justifies buying a cheap rebuilt alternator that may leave them stranded.

Do a Google groups search on cheap rebuilt alternators. Try this variation as an example -

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Ed

Reply to
C. E. White

Update. I called Meineke and they told me it was a "universal fit" catylitic converter. They also said they have seen this resolve the problem only temporarily (maybe a year) and the check engine light could come back on. I'll save my $159.06 and fight Toyota on this issue.

Thanks for all the input!

Reply to
Ike

You probably shouldn't jump directly to a converter replacement, especially if it's in the early phase of failure. P0420 can be caused by false air entry, bad oxygen sensors, and most unlikely converter failure. So first verify there is no false air entry upstream (pipe leaks) and that the engine is well tuned. There is no way to test oxygen sensors. They can go bad without setting codes.

I had managed to rid an intermittent P0420 problem by replacing the oxygen sensors with Bosch planar sensors (used both OEM plug and universal plug types). The converter was actually alive and kicking, producing near the low end of emissions afterwards.

But looks like the Bosch planar (#15733) is available only for downstream on US made 2002 Camrys. The upstream one is probably a rebox then.

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IMO Denso heated sensors are junk, given all the TSBs since its introduction in 1997. They do build decent alternators, but as far as sensors go they shouldn't quit their day jobs.

Ike wrote:

Reply to
johngdole

OK, I have the same car and had the identical problem. Even down to the intermittent "check engine" light someone else noted in a different post on this topic. I finally got fed up and took it back to the dealer and happened to get a really top service writer.

History: It came on once on a trip and I took it to a Toyota dealer out of state. He said, "That's the Cat Converter. We don't have them in stock. Don't worry about it and take it to the dealer when you get home." Later, the O2 sensor failed. My dealer replaced that, said the Cat Conv was no problem....

Later trip and it came on again. When I got home, took it to the dealer. They said, "It shouldn't be the Cat Converter so we flashed the unit and it's reset...it shouldn't happen again." It did...

Trip again: came on, stayed on for about 800 miles, went off. Got home, took it to the dealer, told the Service writer that I'd heard about this as an issue and to please check TSBs. 20 minutes later, he told me he "found a TSB on this...so it's covered" (my car is out of warranty and has about 50k miles on it). They didn't have the part, but I brought it in two days later and they installed a new Cat Converter; no charge. BTW, the charge noted on the invoice was $525...I guess the bill that back to Toyota? Dunno, but I paid $0.

I don't know the TSB number...but it's out there...I guess you just have to find it.

Good luck....

Reply to
Big Kahuna

Yes, the TSB is there, but it's only an 8yr/80,000 mile warranty. I have 113,000 miles. I personally believe the cat is fine. Too many people tell me that they don't just "go bad". But I do need to check for leaks.

Reply to
Ike

Oh, OK. Though I think it's odd to have that be a covered issue up to

80k...then "sorry!" after that....

The other thing you might want to investigate then is why my dealer charged $525 to replace it, and yours wants $700 ??? I'd think dealers would be pretty level on parts prices and I can't imagine there's a labor disparity that large...esp. since this is Silicon Valley with the highest price for everything in the freakin' country (gas, btw, is still over $3 a gallon lowest grade. I just filled up in Oklahoma last week at $1.79 a gallon...).

Reply to
Big Kahuna

=======

of the best in the world, routinely performing for hundreds of thousands of miles with no service apart from brush replacement.

Reply to
Daniel

Yes, a catalyst just makes other chemicals react by definition. Unless the platinum coated substrate overheated and melted/crumbled (like with too much gas from an untuned engine), then the cat should likely be OK. The converter is usually the "victim" not the "villain".

As Big Kahuna's problem showed, Toyota's engine control and Denso oxygen sensors are probably not up to par and TSB required reprogramming on some models. If oxygen sensors need to be replaced, try using genuine Bosch planars type sensors if available. They are more resistant to contamination than traditional thimble types. I personally wouldn't move off Bosch planars unless there are no alternatives.

As far as the 113,000 miles go, you might want to contact Toyota's 800 line to see if they'll cover it on after-warranty goodwill. Manufacturers do give money to dealers for this type of goodwill.

Bosch planar technology:

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Yes, the TSB is there, but it's only an 8yr/80,000 mile warranty. I

Reply to
johngdole

Sure, Denso makes lower power alternators using older but proven technology. And they offer good value for the buck but nothing advanced.

When alternator makers move toward brushless, high efficiency, heavy duty alternators in the 200 amp range with 70-80% efficiency at idle (instead of 30-40% to drive all the electronics, reduced deep battery cycling for longevity, and for reduced emissions), Denso managed to achieve only 130 amps. Keep trying Denso, we are pulling for you! ;)

Daniel wrote:

Reply to
johngdole

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