Just died....

Timing belt if more than 60000? , bad wire or coil if old.

I tried replacing the coil still there was no sparks. So, I went return. There is this silver box on the bottom of the coil I'm not sure what's wrong with it. There is a couple of wire connected to it to the coil. I don't think it's getting any power. That hooks up to ECU and the to the battery. I'm still not sure..

The sensors live in there. You will not find 12 volts on them. The best way to suss the dissy- out is to remove a spark-plug, insert a screwdriver where the plug sits inside the boot,..a nd hold the s/driver blade 1/4-1/2 inch from the engine cam-cover while a helper cranks the engiine. There should be a strong blue spark.

Jason

The ignition coil is part of the distributor. To carry out any fault diagnosis you will need a workshop manual and an ohm meter which covers quite a wide scale. A digital multometer for about $15 or so should be OK.

The distributor has 2 sets of pickups which feed small voltage impulses to the igniter which is mounted on the firewall. The igniter's job is to amplify the small signal pulses synchronised with each cylinder's power stroke commencement (or there abouts. The actual ignition timing is 10 degrees BTDC) to full 12v peak coil power-switching pulses. So there is a loom between the dissy and the igniter which contain wiring to and from the igniter. The coil is in plain site once the dissy cap is off and the cover removed.

There is a connector for the pickup coils,..but you may have to remove the ignition coil to measure its continuity ie Coil primary and secondry : 0.3 to 0.6 ohm and 9k to 15k ohm. The coil has 3 contacts when viewed as installed. Both Primary and Secondry resistance is measured with respect to the +ve terminal which is the lower RHS one. The other Primary contact is the lower LHS,...the Sec (spark output) is at the top edge.

Pickups : unplug the dissy's rear connector (closest to firewall) There are

4 contacts laid out left to right as G+ G- NE- NE+ Make sure the connector tab is at the top for correct orientation. Ohm measurements are : G+ and G- 185 to 265 ohm

NE+ and NE- 370 to 530 ohm

You will need a manual to do these measurements, if you are not experienced with this type of work.

If the coil and sensors check OK and you have ascertained the wiring from the dissy to the igniter is OK, then its time to check the igniter which is located on the RH end of the firewall.It has 5 connector plug and these are not identified in my manual except by a designation,..but, of the 5,. one goes to the battery (via the ignition switch) and thus will have 12v on it,..another goes to the tacho, another to the coil primary, another 2 go to the ECU.

At a guess,..with the igniter connector off, the first pin (left to right with the conn-locking tang to the top) is C- , this is probably goes to the coil-primary,..the second: IG- and the fifth: IGF may go to the ECU,..the third +B is battery (check with car ON),..the fourth: IGT is to the tacho.

Hope this helps,...Jason

AMENDMENT: see 3rd para down

back

I'm

--------------------- amendment This is not quite correct,..the sensor pulses go to the *ECU first* where they are processed and have their timing adjusted for the particular driving conditions at the time (engine speed, throttle position, manifold vac etc),..then they go to the igniter (pin designation IG- and IGF or pins 2 and 5 of the igniter-socket)

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The igniter's job is to

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I check it out and it wasn't the igniter what I had found was the EFI fuse. I went to the auto wrecker and had bought the igniter thinking that was the problem and I read the repair manual for and notice to ceck the main board fuse anf there it was. I unstalled the igniter I had bought and I will be going to return it. Thanks 4 the tips