rear block drain 99 camry v6

I can see front block drain. I would like to know if rear block drain 99 camry v6 is reachable from above, or do I need to lift car to get at it ?

Reply to
wp51dos
Loading thread data ...

Reply to
johngdole

I have a 99 Seinna with a 6 cyl engine. I had to raise the car to get at the rear drain. If I remember correctly, not much came out.

Tony

Reply to
Tony Marsillo

antifreeze replacement went well.

thanks for help.

Reply to
wp51dos

So what brand of antifreeze did you use? oem red? oem pink? or the new Prestone All-Makes? For my own references. Thanks.

wp51dos wrote:

Reply to
johngdole

used prestone.

did not remove thermostat.

dreained radiator and front block drain.

put hose in hole where radiator cap was.

ran tap water slowly withe radiator drain closed and block drain open.

ran motor 15 min with heater on.

put in prestone flush....15 min

drained.

added like so

7 oz antifreeze plus 5 oz distilled water till full.

BINGO

Reply to
wp51dos

You folks are free to use whatever you wish, but as far as I am concerned nothing enters the cooling system but Toyota coolant and distilled water. Under this regimen, I've seen Toyota radiators that are absolutely like new at nearly 230,000 miles, whereas using Prestone I've replace three radiators in another vehicle, and heading for a fourth, but I switched to Toyota coolant and distilled water at the last water pump change.

For the small cost of a new genuine Toyota thermostat, I replace them when the timing belt is changed.

If you think about it, 1) You really cannot guarantee the correct mixture ratio once tap water is introduced.

2) You'll never get all of the tap water out of the system.

Flush compounds are corrosive. With aluminum radiator and head, this is a questionable practice. If the cooling system is drained and re filled regularly, flushing should never be required to keep the cooling system in excellent operating condition. I'm reluctant to alter anything about the Camry cooling system. The temperature gauge never moves above just below the mid point even idling in very hot weather, climbing long grades, or running the air conditioning, plus the fans only rarely come on, and then only for a very short period of time, and there is only the tiniest bit of contamination in the bottom of the coolant recovery bottle when I rinse it out. I've never seen a cooling system work so flawlessly, plus I believe that by altering or neglecting cooling system care, the temperature sensor accuracy can be reduced and their effective life shortened.

Reply to
Daniel

This is what's traditionally done with domestic big blocks. But I am not sure about using tap water in any of today's aluminum engine/cooling system because of all the minerals in tap water.

Usually needed only in neglected cooling systems. Prestone has a non-acidic "cleaner" and heavy duty "flush". I don't use this because getting it all out is not easy. So the best way to clean a cooling system is keeping it clean from the start. But if you have to then you have to.

The new non-Dexcool Prestone Extended LIfe All-Makes doesn't appear to contain silicates. Silicates are hard on the pump seals. So I don't think the new Toyota Pink premix (organic acid hybrid) has any advantage over the new Prestone.

The new Prestone meets ASTM 3306 and 4985 for light duty auto and heavy duty diesel engines. ASTM places max corrosion rate at 1mg/cm^2/week.

7 qts 5 ozs I hope. That's a good amount out of the system. Keep an eye on it for a few heating/cooling cycles as the air gets boiled out of the mixture.
Reply to
johngdole

The old green Prestone has silicates in it. But even for domestic iron blocks the green Prestone should be used with distilled water and not tap water.

Silicates grind the water pump seal and cause it to fail early, and while effective against cavitation corrosion they get used up fast. I didn't have corrosion problems with the ol' green on domestics (but water pumps were regulars at 80-90K miles), that's why I am willing to try the new Prestone Extended LIfe if it doesn't have silicates that grind the pump seals.

The new toyota pink organic acid coolant is premixed with water but sells $15-18 a gallon. I don't think it has any advantage over the new, non-silicated, non-borate Prestone, when both meet ASTM 3306 and 4985 corrosion standards, which is 1mg/cm^2/week.

What you see in the bottom of your reservoir tank is probably the result of corrosion with Toyota coolant, the 1mg/cm^2/week allowed by ASTM standards.

Reply to
johngdole

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.