Rusted fuel line

My 91 fuel line is leaking but looking at it to replace the whole line is difficult because everything is real tight, can a rubber hose be spliced in safely.

Reply to
m Ransley
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and order a can of Kroil You might also find it at a gun shop

This is a rust penetrating lubricant that works extremely well.

Used it on the lower flare nut on the fuel filter and it came right off, but my most remarkable use was the '77 Toyota truck water pump bolt that broke the head off. Tried banging on the end of the stud to loosen it and it rang like a bell - so wedded to the iron block. Tried loosening with vice grips and they just marred the threads. I was afraid I would just twist off the rest of the bolt, so I tried soaking in Kroil - nothing to lose, and planned to install the new water pump without that bolt, using sealer on the gasket. Weather was rainy so I just sprayed a bit more Kroil every few days for a week, and on Sunday, sure enough, the bolt came right out with undamaged threads, so it should work on your fuel lines, too. I would not suggest using rubber splices on high pressure fuel injected lines - too much chance for a tiny leak to develop and begin spraying fuel. With a carburetor, would be fine though - those are low pressure systems.

Reply to
Daniel

Can I use rubber hose, I would just be easier.

Reply to
m Ransley

If I were doing it, I would replace the line.

If you're determined to use flexible line - obviously fuel line, not just a "rubber hose", seems to me you should at least have - don't know the correct name, that "bulge" that goes in metal line right before the clamp.

Would think you've got a risk of fire with even a small gas leak.

If you really want to try it, maybe just use a longer hose, and put two clamps on each end and see if it leaks, but Toyota is generally designed to work well for the long term, and if you look at the flexible fuel lines coming off the fuel filter in the engine compartment they've got those really heavy duty crimped fittings - not just a simple clamp, so there's probably a reason - like keeping fuel under pressure from spraying out where you don't want it on a hot exhaust pipe.

I'm sure the correct answer would be - do it right and replace the original line, can't be that difficult, especially if you use that penetrant first on the old fittings.

But this is just a discussion group - you're free to do anything you wish, dangerous, foolish, wise or otherwise.

Reply to
Daniel

If engine is fuel injected you are looking at high pressure and using the wrong line is dangerous.

Reply to
Art

Aye! With proper, metal 'line'(tube) .

'ferrule' ??? ... meant for hard anneal tube

'flared' fitted metal tubing( soft anneal ) is more common , easier to install 'tite'. due to the softer tubing formability , as opposed to a harder 'ferrule' tube.

'Flared' fitting tube, & tube runs, seem to resist vibration better than 'ferrule' fitted_up tubing runs.

$3/gal fire.

Kinda like a 'non' Lucas, non MGB fitting.

Me? Invest in a flaring tool set , and roll_cutter ... I'd roll_cut the tube back to =good= tube metal , re_do the 'flare', continue the 'run' on with new flares/tube. Most parts stores sell either the 4' pre_flared tube lengths, or the soft anneal(for flaring) tube coils.

Rusted thru fuel lines =also= signal rusted thru brake lines ... soon to follow.

Damn rite ... err, 'correct' .

........... A blind man, on a galloping horse, mite think my newly painted wheel covers looked 'great'.

Ed.

Reply to
0_Qed

I have replaced a part of the return line with rubber. It was in the tank area on 93 Camry. Could not even see the spot it was leaking from, since it was in the vertical section.

Did it on a suggestion from an inspection mechanic, so it was OK, at least in my state.

RichK

Reply to
RichK

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