Starting problem Camry 2000 LE

I have a camry 2000 LE.

2 weeks ago, my friend was waiting in my car and played the CD player while the car is not running, it played for about 5 min. I came out and it failed to start. After each crank, the alarm would go off. I managed to get a jump start and everything was OK.

Today, I left the main lights on for like 3 min by accident w/o engine running and when I saw that, I immediately turned it off. Tried to start it and it cranked, but same problem as mentioned earlier.

Does anybody know or have any idea what is wrong? Starter? Alternator? Battery? Spark Plugs? Spark Plug cables?

Anybody.. please..

TIA

Reply to
skewe
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Probably battery, a store will test alternator free, Ive had batteries go bad after 9 months

Reply to
m Ransley

Got a jump start and it started.

Went to autozone and they told me that the battery is good, so is the alternator. So that leaves me with the starter rite?

Now, after the jump start that I did earlier, it will start w/o any problems. I would like to solve this problem once and for all.

m Ransley wrote:

batteries

Reply to
skewe

Could be corrosion on battery cables or a worn cable, ends fray and can be hard to see. Or the starter.

Reply to
m Ransley

Nope..

checked those before i posted this. all battery terminals, cables, etc are in excellent condition..

i unscrewed it and screw it back on

m Ransley wrote:

can

Reply to
skewe

Each of the battery/charging and starting sysems each count on the other 2 systems to be in good working order.

If your batt is getting tired it will not take as much charge current as prior and will mimic a faulty alternator and *vice versa* ie if the alternator is down on performance it will cause the battery to appear faulty. The starter relies on a good battery and therefore also, a good alternator.

In this situation you need to check the battery volts *while the engine is being cranked*. This will tell if the battery is low capacity. If a multimeter (on volts range) reads below 8v while cranking,..then either the battery is no good or was not up to charge. The last one would point to the alternator. The alternator needs to be tested for current output just after a starting procedure. The alternator should be capable of in the region of

70A. If its much less eg under 40A just after a starting sequence,..then it needs looking at provided the battery is OK,...see the dilemma?

I'd be tempted to borrow a friends known good battery of similar capacity (Amp-hour) and is up to charge. If it fails to recharge to circa 13v after

5 mins of engine running ( measure with car off) after 4 starts plus some drainage such as leaving the lights on with the engine off (say 5 mins),..(you'll need to turn the headlights on after the engine is off, otherwise the car's smart system will cut them also at turnoff),..then your alternator is suss.

To test the alternator you'll need a high current meter ( to display at least 60A) placed in series with the alt output wire. The positive (red) lead of the current meter should connect to the alternator output,..the neg (black) lead to the cable going to the battery.

If after this both the battery and alternator appear OK,..then the starter comes into question (assuming *all* connections are good). To test the starter you 'll need some ability in disassembling/re-assembling the unit. Look for burnt/mislagned/worn-down solenoid contacts, plus brush (too short or stuck in guide) and commutator condition (burnt, scored badly and/or warped segments). Any further checks will involve assessing for field and armature coil open or short circuits.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

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