Thermostat

When do you know when its time to change out the thermostat on a 98 Camry 4 cyl.?

Reply to
RD
Loading thread data ...

When the temp guage starts acting weird. It may go high and stay there, it may go high and then come back down, it may stay low, or it may fluctuate. There is no set time to replace the thermostat; I have had one car go

255,000 miles before having to put in a new one. If you're the nervous type, replace it when you replace the timing belt, or every other timing belt change.
Reply to
hachiroku

Change it when you change the water pump & tbelt

Reply to
qslim

RD wrote: || When do you know when its time to change out the thermostat on a 98 || Camry 4 cyl.?

When it stops working.

Reply to
Horatio

When replacing water pump, coolant is drained from system. Good insurance to replace, for the extra few dollars and alittle more labor. Don't forget to check the major hoses.

Reply to
jjjsan

4

The bulb type t/stats use the expansion of wax as it turns to liquid from solid to force the valve open against the tension of a spring. If the wax leaks out because of a broken bellow (which is part of the t/stat) the return spring will cause the valve to shut, which inturn causes a near instantaneous overheat.

I'd do it every 100,000ks or so.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

As other replies have given you when it's suggested to change it, I'm guessing that you're asking how one knows if the thermostat has failed. Acting in that principle, I've found that factory Toyota thermostats fail by staying open. This then results in a weak heater during winter time as the car won't, or has a very hard time, reaching operating temperature.

More simply put: if your temperature needle is lower in the winter time than summer time, your thermostat is broken.

Reply to
Viperkiller

Thanks for all replies. Viperkiller nailed my dilemma though. I have no history on summer vs. winter as I just bought the car. I am in a northern climate though and it does seem to be slow to warm up and after it does I do not get a lot of heat out. Of course it could also be cab heating coil or a host of other things but thermostat failure would be easiest to fix, which is why I was looking there first.

rd

4
Reply to
RD

4

I haven't seen a Totyota thermostat and find it interesting they stay open when failed. They must use another principle than the 'wax-pellet' design ?

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

formatting link
"THERMOSTAT FAILURE

The thermostat is pretty simple and rarely causes problems, but when it fails the results can be disastrous. The worst case scenario is when the thermostat sticks shut, which can happen if the wax element has been damaged by previous overheating, corrosion or age. If it sticks shut, it will block the circulation of coolant between the engine and radiator causing the engine to overheat.

If the thermostat fails to *close*, which can happen if the sensing element binds up, the return spring breaks or a piece of rust or debris jams it open, the constant flow of coolant through the thermostat will prevent the engine from reaching normal operating temperature. This can cause poor driveability in cold weather, a sharp increase in fuel consumption, little or no heater output, and accelerated blowby and ring and cylinder wear. "

--

   ~Philip.
Reply to
Philip

damaged

block

element

We had Ford Cortinas out here which were basically British Cortinas with the

2litre or our local Falcon 3.3 or 4.1 litre 6 fitted. The 4 cyl one I had at work had a thermostat which slammed shut while I was cruising on a country road at 75mph,....the engine was saved as I felt the car hesitate and shut her down,..the coolant emptied all over the road when I stopped,.... Got low-loaded back to base.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

The Ford Cortinas delivered to California back in the early '70's had the puny little 1600cc push rod four. NEVER had a six. So "Cortina" means something else to you.

Thermostats don't slam shut ... unless you have some special definition.

--

   ~Philip.
Reply to
Philip

I meant the spring forced it shut after the wax exited into the water-jacket.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

I realize the Ford also has a thermostat, but which years were manufactured by Toyota?

Reply to
Daniel

Would you clarify your question?

Reply to
Philip

---------- Would you clarify your question?

---------- Actually, found this thread interesting - especially Philip's link describing the operation of wax pellet thermostats. My point was, it may not be helpful to raise experiences with other makes of vehicle in a Toyota Camry forum. A Ford is not a Toyota. The Ford thermostat design, materials and quality of construction may be quite different. My personal opinion only, would prefer to read comments by those who have experience with the specific conditions raised by the original questioner. The mode of failure and conditions for replacement of Ford original equipment thermostats may differ significantly from replacement requirements and failure modes of Toyota original equipment thermostats. To answer the original poster's question - I would recommend replacement of the thermostat and radiator cap as preventative maintenance and low cost insurance, even though, with regular cooling system maintenance, using Toyota coolant and distilled water, both parts tend to be quite reliable.

with such precise and dependable cooling control. Temperature gauge never moves from below half way mark, even in hot summer idling with A/C on, or climbing long grades. Coolant (although changed regularly) is always light pink color and completely rust free. Top of radiator tubes always pristine and uncontaminated. Car also warms quickly in cold weather and heat is nice and hot. (127,000 miles, 4 cylinder) Other vehicles I've owned, even with changing coolant regularly, though I never used distilled water, radiators would clog or develop leaks and require replacement over time, and temperature gauge would rise under more demanding conditions.

Reply to
Daniel

Understand your reasoning, except modern automotive thermostat design is abit like wheel design,...they all share the same theory of operation ..

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

Yeah the venerable 105E engine? They came out in the first Cortinas between circa '63 - 71 in a number of sizes from 1200 to 1600cc. Also fitted to Escorts of the '70s and the Capri. The Capri also came with the 2850 and later 3000cc V6,..agreat motor in a light body with a dual-barrel DD. Weber

We also could biy the "wide-body" Corty ('72-82) with the 1600,....but they didnt sell many,..mainly 2 litre. The 6cyl models had a 3 speed manual option,...FFS,.. *3* on the floor!! One of Ford's lapses.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.