Toyota Camry (Automatic) 95 stalls after 30 minutes

Hi!

I have a toyota camry 1995, which has recently started stalling for no apparent reason. It starts fine, runs fine for 15-30 minutes and then starts giving trouble. Eventually it dies, it will start again a few times, but after another 15-30 minutes it refuses. After 5 minutes it recovers just enought to start, and continues to stall. The only way to run it then is to use both accelarator and brake... not pleasant!

I have had it tuned, inspected by mechanic for a whole day and he couldnt find what was wrong with it. I am a broke student. someone help me out please.

I read online it could be EGR, but they usually give trouble even when car is cold, I have no idea. Could someone tell me how to test the EGR valve? Ive heard its expensive (for a student).

Oh. and my car's muffler has been asking for repair for a while (6 months) but I chose to ignore it, and now i have to ignore it as i paid for tune up.

thanks in advance!!!

Reply to
ChicagoanAtOakPark
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I just hope it is not the same sensor that went out on my 91 Camry. That car was acting similar to yours. Forgot what it was called. Some kind of air flow or mass flow sensor. Anyway it was about a $ 600 sensor.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

The '95 wagon we just bought just did the same thing. The mechanic didn't really know what caused it; he suggested replacing the (original!) plug wires, and a tuneup, and I told him to replace the fuel filter as well. I'm hoping it was the fuel filter...

Reply to
mj

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:> Hi!

============= My first guess would be a temperature sensor if it does this only when the engine warms. BTW, if you have a four cylinder there is no MAF sensor, you have a MAP sensor instead but I highly doubt that's the problem. You say you have muffler problems. If there is a restriction, that could also be causing the engine to die - typcially more noticeable at higher engine speeds. If you are running rich with black smoke coming out of the exhaust when the engine dies, that indicates the computer is receiving a signal that the engine is still cold and adding extra fuel. That would explain why it runs well when cold only. If you have the 4 cyl. there should be a sensor with a green plastic top at the water outlet near the distributor that should be checked. You can find factory service manuals online, and an inexpensive digital volt ohm meter will allow you to test your sensor to see if it needs replacement.

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would check the section describing your engine.

Reply to
Daniel

Does engine light come on? If so, check for error codes...

Can be sometihng as simple as the tempurature sensor (the one that opens EGR valve, for recycling air) Coulld be EGR valve itself. Could be air flow meter.

Get the code, if there's one.

Reply to
lee_melnikov

I went to a new mechanic today he spent 2 hours on it... He said that the car would stall on him, but except for one time it would always start right back up. When it didn't start for a while he manage to check that the sparking plugs etc was working fine, so he said it's probably not electronic; probably fuel pump. He said he had to close the shop and to bring it back on Monday. I asked him if could be bad fuel, he said "no, bad fuel would make the car behave funny, not just die" Anyways, so I am not sure if I made this clear:

The car stalls no matter if it is in N or D, but D sometimes kills it quicker. When sufficiently warm, it just dies, no other quirks. Sometimes it survives a stall when I accelerate hard. Sometimes giving it acceleration cures the problem temporarily. However, the main problem with mechanics has been reproducing the problem to the extent that they can diagnose it. Does this mechanic sound good or should I take it to another, or do some other diagnosis.

I forgot to ask him if he checked the EGR valve :(

lee_melnikov wrote:

Reply to
chicagoan

How is the venting system of your fuel tank? Does it work properly?

Reply to
jan siepelstad

==================== If you can find a Toyota dealer with a good service department, sometimes their familiarity with the brand can work to your benefit since they service only Toyotas they may be more likely to identify typical problem areas and have the diagnostic and test equipment and current information to isolate the fault.

Reply to
Daniel

That may be a probelm. It is hard to find a good service department at a dealer. As soon as teh service people learn about the cars, they go in business for theirselves in this area. I took my 91 Camry to a dealer because of similar simptoms. The chart on Autozone or one of the other web sits mentioned a sensor that could cost $ 500 or more. I took it to a dealer thinking they could check it out. They replaced several other things to the tune of about $ 200 before the expensive sensor. It took so long I emailed the Toyota headquartes and got a very nice email back from them telling me they would check with the dealership. Finally got the car back after 3 weeks, and the expensive sensor was the problem.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

Reply to
ERON_W

================ If you have the ignition coil inside the distributor cap, that is a good place to begin checking. The Factory Service Manual has many pages devoted to troubleshooting, isolating and testing various components. That would be the ideal. Track the symptoms, test the component and if bad, then replace. The introductory section of the manual has general tips for replicating problems, such as using a heat gun, tapping on the part while testing, and so on. Internal coils are a common problem, so I would begin there. Test resistance at primary and secondary windings while tapping on the coil and or heating it, to insure readings remain consistent. The troubleshooting section is filled with flowcharts for each sensor, so you can track a symptom systematically - if this tests good, then check this, and so on. See:

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Reply to
Daniel

================ If you have the ignition coil inside the distributor cap, that is a good place to begin checking. The Factory Service Manual has many pages devoted to troubleshooting, isolating and testing various components. That would be the ideal. Track the symptoms, test the component and if bad, then replace. The introductory section of the manual has general tips for replicating problems, such as using a heat gun, tapping on the part while testing, and so on. Internal coils are a common problem, so I would begin there. Test resistance at primary and secondary windings while tapping on the coil and or heating it, to insure readings remain consistent. The troubleshooting section is filled with flowcharts for each sensor, so you can track a symptom systematically - if this tests good, then check this, and so on. See:

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highly recommend using the Toyota factory service manuals and genuineToyota replacement parts to minimize problems.Usually, you can check various sensors with only an inexpensive digitalvolt ohm meter, so there may be some things you can do independently ifyou are so inclined. If not familiar with automotive systems, thenperhaps you could print the relevant sections for the mechanic andinstruct him to use Toyota replacement parts.However, if he unsuccessfully spent $800 of your money searching, youmight consider a different mechanic, but provide him with a list ofitems already replaced.Aftermarket ignition components have been known to cause problems so a"new" part could still be suspect.

Reply to
Daniel

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