Transmission problem

I have had a strange thing happen twice in the last week.

Driving car, 97 Camry 4 cyl, and everything is fine,,,,35 minutes into ride, it feels like transmission jerks, check engine light comes on, speedometer drops to 0 mph, yet car is still running at approx 60 mph on highway. I sweat it out the last 2 miles home......check fluids, ok, but probably need to be changed.

Next morning, figure I will call dealer when I get to work (5 miles away). To my surpise, check engine light is off, and there seems to be no problem. Call dealer from work, and he tells me if it is intermittent, maybe they can figure it out, maybe not. Basically wait and see what happens.

3 days go by....everything is fine, no trouble at all.

Today, I take a longer drive, and about 30 minutes into the trip, the same thing starts again. Trnsmission not shifting at times without rpms going up to 4000. Check engine light comes on, and speedometer acts as if it is insane.....jumping from 0-40, then at times jumping to speed I am actually going,,,,and working properly.

The only constants were,,,,,both times happened after car had run about 30 minutes, and weather was cold 20 degrees f.

Is there a reason the transmission only seems to act funny when the car gets hot?

Any ideas? (The car goes to dealer Tues) it is not under warranty.

Thanks,

CW

Reply to
CW
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On my 2002 Camry, the car does not shift into overdrive until the car warms up. In your case, you stated this happens after 30 min so that should give ample time for the engine to be hot. I would suggest when that happens again to go straight to the dealer and have then use a scanner to check what codes come in. I would suspect the onboard computer would also store previous check engine codes as well.

Reply to
Car Guy

Your electronically controlled transmission has one or more speed sensors. Chances are the problem is there - the car's computer is receiving erratic readings, or none at all. First thing to check would be the wires that connect on the outside of the transaxle. If you can find them, try removing the wire, cleaning and re-connecting -- that could solve your problem right there.

Reply to
Daniel M. Dreifus

Your case sounds like an online test (#6) available at

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: Q6. The engine stalls intermittently. After several days, the technician captured a recording on the scan tool that showed scan tool data when the engine started to stall, but then caught itself and kept running. Here is what he found. What do you think is wrong?

Correct. Notice how in frame -5 the RPM stopped totally, but the question said the engine started to stall, but caught itself. The RPM in frame -5 went to zero because the computer thought the engine stopped because the RPM signal went dead for a moment, even though the engine was still spinning. Remember, without the RPM sensor, the computer wont run the injectors or anything else.

Reply to
IceMan

Using a different email address, but am original poster. Started the car this am ,,,,everything was fine. Ran it for 20 minutes, ran fine. Check engine light off. This makes me think it is more of an electronic than mechanical problem, as mechanical would seem to happen all the time. Although I an not a mechanic.

Here are some other things that might be of help. Replaced brakes 5k miles ago. Noticed that wheel cover on right passenger side is black from brake dust. Also, the day before this happened, I turned headlights on and walked into work, coming out to a dead battery. Jumped battery, car was fine. (I know they go out automatically, but I turned them on without the car being started, and doors open) I was in a hurry, and thought I was turning them off.

Hopefully someone somewhere cam makes some sense of this....lol....

Thanks,

CW

Reply to
CW

I think "IceMan" found your issue.

Reply to
Philip®

Will the computer store error codes?...the check engine light went off. The rpms always seemed to stay accurate, but the speedometer was all over...from 0-60...even when I was going 60 mph

CW

Reply to
CW

In news:400a087e$0$12809$ snipped-for-privacy@nnrp.fuse.net, CW being of bellicose mind posted:

Any persistant sensor or actuator or value-out-of-range will will trip a code and store it. This does not mean that a specific pin point self diagnosis will result ... only a specific circuit deficiency. Also, for the most part when a failure code is set, the failure while logged may be reset by the ECM if the failure "cures itself" for some period of time. Notice how carefully I couched that? LOL Once you get it to screw up, prolong that condition as long as you can to assure a failure code record and then get the ECM read ASAP.

Reply to
Philip®

LOL, yeah, usually its "2 trip detection", if it sees a problem for 2 trips, will set the code. If it doesnt see it in 2 drive cycles after it turned on the light, it wil turn off the light, BUT the code will remain. Now somethign like 40 drive cycles with no trouble, the code will clear completely. Toyotas enhanced software, we can see past codes.

Reply to
MDT Tech®

I have this question: Let's say you have a customer with an oil burning issue in the first 10,000 miles of ownership. The car is verified consuming about one quart of oil per 1,500 miles. As the technician, you question how the car was broken in. The customer is unavailable for interrogation. What historic information is available from the ECM, both lifetime and short term?

Reply to
Philip®

No, didnt tell him anything. Did you read the reply? And couldnt tell who you were replying too either.

Reply to
MDT Tech®

Philip, we have an interrogation room, its small, one little table in it and a hanging lamp, kinda dimly lit with some torture tools, cigarettes to burn, electric probes etc. I'll email you directly on this one. ;-)

Reply to
MDT Tech®

Although after driving an oil-burner, he'd probably welcome the torture room as an alternative.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

Problem was solved by a Dodge dealer. Car acted up, and engine light came on, so I stopped in to see if he could read Toyota error codes....he could. Errors were from speed sonsor. No big deal, just a part replacement. He called Toyota dealer for part, and Toyota Tech said he almost never sees those sensors go bad. The Dodge dealer didnt believe him, as Chryslers often go bad at about 70k. Anyway, he got to looking around underneath, and seen that the wires at some point had been spliced, ......he fixed wiring, and I was on my way. Total cost $130.00

CW

Reply to
CW

wires at some point had been spliced, ......he fixed

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Reply to
Daniel M. Dreifus

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