Greetings, first time in this group. I'm going to change the T-belt ,I've done a few but not a camry ( '94, 2.2 ) I have the T-belt, crankshaft seal, multi belts, spring tenisioner, But I'm not to sure about the camshaft seal or seals. Should I try to change them & or are they nailbiters . I don't think there's anyother seals that are required..? The belt has been changed before with the water pump some 60k ago. thanks in advance...dan
odyssey wrote:
============================================ The camshaft turns at one half the engine speed, so that seal usually lasts longer. There's a special tool you can get to install the camshaft oil seal, looks like a cylindrical cup with a bolt through the center to press in the new seal. The reason you need a special tool is that the strut tower is very close to the cam gear, limiting access room. The alternative might be to remove the first cam bearing cap, but then you would need Toyota FIPG (form in place gasket) material) to reseal the front bearing cap against oil leaks. More important, you should plan on changing the oil pump oil seals. There are two: the seal for the shaft and an O ring for the cover plate. These are more prone to leakage than the cam seal because the oil pump is turning more rapidly and they're fairly simple to change. I used a "strap wrench" to hold the oil pump gear after unbolting the cover plate, and loosened the nut easily with an impact wrench. You mention the spring tensioner. There are actually two idler pulleys. Good idea to change both. Also get a new spring for the tensioner pulley. Other oil seals to consider changing at this time are the PCV grommet, valve cover gasket and grommets, and distributor O ring. According to the FSM, you're also supposed to change the fuel cap gasket. Almost forgot to mention, you can save a lot of time and aggravation if you first remove the crankshaft pulley then access the lower bolts for the front engine support.
It's recommended that you change the seals while doing the timing belt. The hotter cylinder head will tend to make the cam seals seep. So change out cam and crank seals, plus the oil pump seal. See if your local Autozone will provide a free loaner cam holder tool. You need this tool. Also, make sure you grease the seals properly before installing.
The idler pulley is usually in better shape than the tensioner, but change them both. Check the prices on the Dayco pulley kit. It's a good deal. Consider changing the water pump while you are at it. $35 for a BeckArnley or $57 for an Aisin (oem) on
Typical parts replaced in a timing job:
odyssey wrote:
I'm probably living on borrowed time, but my '83 Camry is still running on all the original seals. And is on about it's 5th timing belt. One thing I've noticed is that the seals do seep slightly. But the design inside the timing cover channels the oil away from the belt. I get an oil film on the engine, but the belt and plastic covers are bone dry.
I've been replacing the idler every other time. Same with my MR2's. If you check the idler at 60K, you'll notice a very slight amount of play. New one's have zero. At 120K the play is significant, but not enough to cause trouble yet.
As always, YMMV
======================= I found with the Toyota seals, the grease was already there. So I now have a lifetime supply of red grease.
I find the seals will start to show some seepage at 50-60K. Starting with the cam seal. The crank seal will look prestine. But out it goes at 60K for about $6. Not only will the oil come out of there, some blow-by gas comes out too.
Kurt Krueger wrote:
Yes I know. These are regularly spaced silicone looking dabs on the inside. Some of which may already be on the plastic bag when the salesperson handed it to you. But FelPro seals are all I use except what they don't make.
Everything the seal comes into contact with during installation should have a thin grease coating, including the cam/crank shaft. I just use sensor safe engine assembly grease because I have it.
Daniel wrote:
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