When changing a timing belt...

Oops, meant to say Water Pump in addition to timing belt.

- Michael

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

========================== Depends on how thorough you want to be. I like to be thorough, keep the car running like new forever. My experience is with the 1994 four cylinder. There is a crankshaft oil seal, oil pump oil seal, oil pump O ring, and camshaft oil seal. All of these are inexpensive. I purchased a special tool to install the camshaft oil seal because with the strut tower so close you don't have room to drive in the seal. For the crankshaft seal, I took the part to Home Depot and found a plumbing pipe just the right size to drive it in, then used a wood block and mallet. The oil pump oil seal could be pressed in by hand. The idler and tensioner bearings should be replaced and install a new tensioner spring. Apply extra force to the new belt, allow it to relax being held by the spring, then tighten the adjustment pulley. Otherwise it will be too loose. I also replaced the accessory drive belts and used a Burroughs belt tension gauge from eBay to set tension at 130 lbs. Change water pump and thermostat. Next time I change the water pump I am also going to install new bolts. I noticed a slight amount of corrosion on some and prefer not to wait until they break during some later removal. Some of the gasket material for the timing belt plastic cover was missing so I replaced them also. I think you'll find after replacing the engine oil seals, if you have them it is also a good idea to change the distributor O ring, valve cover gasket, PCV grommet and fuel cap gasket along with the oil seals under the valve cover nuts. On my model I also change the spark plugs and fuel filter. Recommend a crow foot flare nut wrench for the lower fitting and soak in Kroil first. Remove the crankshaft pulley first to make removing the engine mount bolts more accessible. I also changed the spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor and alternator brushes. I my case, although you may not need to do this, I also re sealed the engine oil pan, changed the transmission pan gasket and drained and replaced the coolant.

There's a gasket for the water pump too, right?

Thank you for the reply. I am making a list of stuff to order from

for my timing belt job. Then I will give the parts to a local mechanic (recommended by a friend) to change the timing belt. (I'm learning, but I'm not *quite* there yet.)

Michael

I'm not sure how happy the mechanic will be to install the parts you've purchased elsewhere. Mechanics generally buy their parts at close to wholesale and know what they need to accomplish a job, and make some dough from the difference between what they pay and what they charge you. It's a little like taking your own steak to a restaurant and having them cook it for you, and charging you only for the chef's time.

>

Point well taken. I just don't want the mechanic to install a third-party water pump.

I guess it's a bit like taking a $10+/lb Filet Mignon to the local restaurant, which only serves $3/lb London Broil, and asking them to cook it for me. If they complain, I can always go elsewhere... ;-)

Dealer definitely is out. I'd rather try it myself, and take a whole week to do the job, than take it there.

Michael

Going to a dealer is like going to a resort.....the last resort!

Hahaha, I don't go to the dealer too. But right now I'm forced to go to them since my 07 Camry is still new, maybe in the future I'll do them myself or go to other shops. I don't want to mess up anything while its still in warranty period. Not literally, but I just want to have the Toyota dealer record for the first years. Am I just wasting my money or just as long as I keep records like oil and filter proof of purchase and stuff will be accepted by Toyota just in case there is a problem on my car and have to take it back for warranty?

How many miles on the engine? If first belt change replace belt and inspect everything else. If second change and still on original water pump. Change out belt, water pump and idler pulley. Inspect the seals for leaking.

These are the typical parts that should be changed when that area of the engine is taken apart. The gasket (o-ring) is usually included with the water pump. You don't need the water inlet housing, just the pump would do.

Some people change the pump with every other belt. But while in there, I'd just change it out. Cheap enough every 60K miles.

prices for 3/5SFE) GATES TCK199 (kit of timing belt with two pulleys and instruction) $84.79 GATES Part # K030295 PS belt $4.32 GATES Part # K050435 Alt/AC $12.12 FEL-PRO TCS45641 Cam seal $4.11 FEL-PRO TCS45920 Crank seal $6.04 BCA Part # 221820 Oil pump seal $2.71 AISIN (Toyota #16110-79185) water pump $58.79 FEL-PRO VS50304R valve cover gasket set $13.94

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

That's interesting... you sure that water pump part 16110-79185 is an OEM toyota part?

doesn't recognize that part, plus they want $75+ for a water pump.

"Water Pump Assembly 16100-79185-83 72.03"

This is the Toyota number Daniel posted from his invoice. Since Toyota numbers are normally 10 digits, the one provided by rockauto.com seems correct. The -83 may be a revision number, haven't seen it for other parts.

Dunno about OEM pumps otherwise, because I don't use Toyota pumps (made by Aisin). Many of them started seeping and give the mysterious coolant loss problem even with annual changes of OEM coolant and distilled water. So I see no advantage there. I use only Airtex as replacements from local NAPA stores (some of these are reboxed Japanese pumps). My local NAPA gives lifetime warranty on NAPA Premium branded Airtex and the price is right. Gasket (o-ring) should be included with each pump. See:

Import pumps use rubber o-ring seals instead of carbide seals found in domestic pumps. So make sure you use silicate free OEM coolant here.

The new Toyota Pink has only one of the two major components of Dexcool. It's slow acting so new components will not have protection for several thousand miles. Industry tests have shown the Pink to have "significant weight loss" (corrosion) problem. Obviously the phosphates Toyota used in place of 2EHA doesn't work very well. 2EHA is the other major Dexcool component that is fast-acting, but it can plasticize some gasket materials used in Japanese cars.

So get the Toyota Red if you still can, and use distilled water.

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

BTW, on the rockauto.com web site, the "1611079185" is the Aisin part number, which corresponds to the Toyota number "1610079185" as it stated there. My typo here. Aisin (not the ASCO pump with an imitation Aisin number) lists for $58.79 just now.

NAPA's new Airtex pump, NWP559099, lists for $34.99.

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Ok, thanks for the clarification on part numbers.

I think it was a slow leak that got me on my '96, 2+ years ago. Back then I knew nothing about cars, besides oil changes. $1,000 later in dealer repairs (new radiator + new water pump) I'm a little wiser now.

I'll look into the Napa Airtex pump. Thanks for the information.

Anyone else have any experience with the Napa parts?

- Michael

snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote: