1990 4-Runner 3VZ-4 Rebuild

Hello, i'm trying to decide about rebuilding my 4-Runner engine (190,000 miles) or buying a rebuilt engine from a dealer, any suggestions? It lost compression and won't start and i've already pulled it from the truck. If anyone has experience with purchasing a rebuild where did you get it and if anyone completed a rebuild where did you get the rebuild kit (OEM or aftermarket)? Thanks

Reply to
glacb
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Well, its a burnt valve. Do a valve grind. I bet the rest is fine. USually a result of not checking valve clearance.

Reply to
MDT Tech®

Hi. I have a 89 4x4 sr5 pickup, 6 cyl, and 235k miles. Should I be checking the valve clearances? She runs great with no oil loss. Thanks and happy new year

Reply to
JoAnne

Yes, measure them cold. You will need shims to set the clearance. It will run fine till it quits! ;-D Tigh valves is what burns them. And if you have normal wear, teh valves will usually becoem tigher with time. We get probably about 10 of these a year, burnt valves from too little clearance.

Reply to
MDT Tech®

Great another New Years resolution to the list!

Reply to
JoAnne

To actually answer your question, you can find a rebuild kit on E-Bay for around $375.00.. I am an aircraft mechanic and unlike the other suggestions if you have the time I would take the engine down as far as you are comfortable with and take the block to a shop to be checked for cracks and cleaned. If you are going to spend the time to do the job, might as well do it right.. You can pick up the Engine book for your truck at your Toyota dealer, VOL. 1 for around $55.00..

Good Luck

Tony

Reply to
1992 Toyota Xcab

Does anybody really bring their vehicle in for just a valve clearance check? The last (and only) time I had my valve covers off at around 125k to replace leaking gaskets it was a major job, at least for me (V6). Last time I checked a longblock cost more than the truck was worth so it might not be a bad idea to check the valves if your going in there for something else.

Gary W.

Reply to
Gjlwilliams

Thanks.

Would you use OEM replacement parts if it requires pistons and rings? What all would you replace - water pump, timing belt, fuel injectors, hoses, etc.?

Gregg

suggestions

Reply to
glacb

Contrary to what some other people on this site may think, I have notice that OEM parts and aftermarket parts are about the same. Sine you have an old vehicle it really does not matter for warranty. I would use whatever you feel comfortable with or what your pocket book can afford.

Tony

Reply to
1992 Toyota Xcab

That has not been my experience with Toyota parts. Case in point is the ignition wires. Genuine Toyota wires are cut to length, numbered, have heat protective wrapping in the correct places, and include the plastic spacers (already attached) as well as the connectors to secure the 1-3-5 wires to the timing cover. Installing them is just a matter of dropping them onto the engine and plugging everything up. Aftermarket, on the other hand, is probably just going to be a box of wires that may or may not be the correct lengths.

So, in this case (and others), there is a significant difference between genuine Toyota and aftermarket parts.

I have bought a lot of Toyota parts over the years and my experience has been that the genuine Toyota stuff is, on the average, going to be consistently of a higher quality than other suppliers and may at times include extra goodies as was the case with the ignition wires. Of course, these parts are also going to cost twice as much. Is it worth the extra expense? Sometimes . . . but usually not. FWIW If money is no object, always go with genuine Toyota. Otherwise, shop around where possible.

Luther

Reply to
Luther

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