I've read what was in the NG about towing with a Tundra, but I'd like to get a specific opinion on what I'd like to tow.
I bought a 2002 Tundra V8 X-Cab 2x4 AT with the TRD package new from the dealership. It came with a hitch when I bought it, but it has no transmission cooler, so I'm assuming it does not have the "tow package". The bumper says a 5000lb towing max. I've been easily towing two jetskis on a steel frame trailer since I bought it, but it's only about 1500lbs.
Question: What does the original toyota tow package include?
I need to tow a car in an enclosed trailer with a total weight of
7000lb. I haven't bought the trailer yet, but it's an 18' Haulmark with all 4 wheel brakes. I won't be towing it a lot, maybe 6 to 8 times a year, but two of the trips will be 600-700 miles each.
Question: If I add a transmission cooler will that be enough or do I need to do something else for it tow that amount of weight safely?
Question: the trailer has spring axles, but someone said torsion axles are far better. True?
Anything else I may have missed, please feel free to give your op.
And 1500 pounds is about all I'd put on a bumper hitch, no matter what they mark them with they are not really strong enough for much more. They mass produce them as "a bumper with a usable hitch", not as a strong hitch.
Most tow packages include:
An auxiliary cooler for automatic transmissions. A larger cooling capacity radiator. Larger cooling fan (more airflow) with a more aggressive thermostatic clutch. With electric fans, two fans or a larger single fan. Larger battery. Larger alternator. (Added taillights and Electric Brake loads) Sometimes an engine oil cooler.
Tail Light Converter if needed - some cars have lamp failure monitors, and you have to power the trailer lights separately with a special module that draws power straight from the battery.
If you plan to 'dry camp' in the truck (camper shell) for long periods, I would seriously suggest converting the tow vehicle to dual batteries, with a deep-cycle battery to run the radio and lights while parked. Save the starting battery /only/ for starting.
First thing is a proper welded frame-mount receiver hitch. If you're in Los Angeles, go to Eckhart Hitch & Welding, they build them custom to fit for everyone. Customizing is easy - I always have a Slop Bolt (big set-screw) added so the receiver doesn't shift in the tube, and tuck the electrical connector brackets up out of the way.
I've seen some pretty flimsy garbage sold as a hitch - but not there. I have never seen an Eckhart fail unless grossly overloaded and abused (5X rated load) - but the pile of bent metal they have out back (failed name brand mass-market hitches) is scary impressive...
For openers, the transmission cooler is the only Must Do. If you plan to tow a lot at night, you may need the larger alternator to handle the lighting and electric brake loads - keep an eye on the voltage at idle, if it's dropping to 11V or below that's a signal.
If you have any overheating problems, or the next time you need to replace the radiator, or the cooling fan & fan clutch, or the alternator, you can ask for the larger "Towing Package" items.
If you have no problems, the regular items will work. They developed the heavier items for people who are flogging the vehicle towing with their foot flat to the floor going over the Rockies every trip - most people are a bit more reserved...
Six of one, half dozen of the other. The rubber torsion axles don't have springs, they have bonded rubber between the axle arm and the frame mount blocks - they might ride better if you were transporting Ming Vases back there, but they fail too, the rubber rots out. And then they often get cocked at odd angles, and like a car with bad alignment it'll start chewing through tires.
(Regular straight axles won't lose alignment like that, when a spring breaks it just falls on the frame on one side. Some 4X4 lumber and chains, and you can limp into town.)
Torsion axles are worth the trouble for special applications - like a lowering-bed trailer where they can't have an axle going all the way across the chassis. Or where the trailer has to be built as low to the ground as possible.
Myself, I'd go with conventional spring axles for the simple fact that "Field Expedient Repairs" to get back on the road after a spring breaks are easier to cobble up, and parts are more readily available. KISS - Keep It Simple, Stupid... ;-) If you spin a wheel bearing bad enough to trash the spindle, then you often have to replace the axle. Find one in a hurry, your vacation is on a schedule and the Boss expects to see you back in a week.
When ordering the trailer, they do have some nifty things that look like they're worth extra - like hydraulic DISC brakes. There's an electric pump on the trailer tongue to actuate the brakes from a normal electric brake controller in the tow vehicle. You get the long life, repair ease and effectiveness of disc brakes, and an assured battery breakaway system that actuates the pump.
Oh, and get a spare tire and rim. And make sure you have a lug wrench that fits, and a way to jack the trailer - clearances are low, you may need a scissor jack.
On any car, make sure the breakaway actuator for the trailer brakes is attached directly to the body, NOT THE BUMPER OR HITCH. If the whole hitch falls off the car frame, and that's where you clipped the breakaway cable lanyard too, the breakaway may never actuate.
It might look stupid, but rig up a totally independent anchor point. Put a hitch ring under the tailgate bolted to the bed, or inside the trunk lid lip on a car or SUV that you can snake a piece of steel aircraft cable to.
I have towed heavy load with both kinds of axle and torsion is the way to go hands down. They tend to track really well and you will never be sorry you got them. This "if you spin a bearing" is kinda out in left field because you have to either run it dry, set it too tight or overload axle a lot because bearings do not just spin for no reason. One thing I STRONGLY recommend it to get trailer with 5200 lb axle, not 3500lb ones. I think it foolish to use 3500lb axles on a car hauling trailer where it is easy to overload them at times and even when not they are close to rated capacity. Lots of 3500 lbs axles have failed because they were overloaded. 5200lbs axles have bigger brakes too. One more thing, if you go torsion (I would) if you plan to use
3500 lbs axles and run it at max capacity you may have a few issues with them as they age but if you get 5200 lbs one you will never have any issues with them. Once you tow a big heavy load with torsion ans see how nice they track and ride you will be sold on them. I towed a flatbed trailer with a laoded weight of over 13k a few times that had dual torsion 7000 lb axles and i towed like a dream and very stable with no quirks.
I have a small trailer with a torsion axle. I did it that way for ground cleanance behind my Jeep. I don't know how relevant it is to a larger trailer, but I love how it rides!
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