I'm changing my head gasket, which blew while 4 wheeling, due to a bad radiator cap and a hardly functional factory temp gauge (I've got the minimal factory gauges, ie. no tach). Besides the timing chain, gears and guides, what else should I replace? I'm trying to come up with a list of all parts ans gaskets I'll need, to minimize trips to the parts store.
TIA
When I did mine:
Thanks Roger. Excellent job explaining the procedures. I'm going to print it out and use it as a reference while tearing down. Is that some type of grease on the cam lobes and tops of the valve springs? If so, what did you use?
TIA
: > > I'm changing my head gasket, which blew while 4 wheeling, due to a bad : > > radiator cap and a hardly functional factory temp gauge (I've got the : > > minimal factory gauges, ie. no tach). Besides the timing chain, gears : > > and guides, what else should I replace? I'm trying to come up with a : > > list of all parts ans gaskets I'll need, to minimize trips to the : > > parts store. : > >
: > > TIA : >
: > When I did mine: : >
: >
: > I also changed the water pump and put on new belts and hoses. You might : > consider the chain tensioner, too. : : Thanks Roger. Excellent job explaining the procedures. I'm going to : print it out and use it as a reference while tearing down. Is that : some type of grease on the cam lobes and tops of the valve springs? If : so, what did you use? : : TIA
I would get some beer, too. Don't forget!
Its the cam break-in lube supplied by TRD with the new cam. If you are retaining the old cam and rocker arms, then no need to do that.
Thought it was something along those lines Roger. I should be keeping the stock cam, at least for now.
Well, I've got it just about all apart now. The head is at the machine shop. They said they'll disassemble it, check for warpage, check for cracks, do a standard valve job, check the cam, resurface it and then reassemble it. Should be right around $200.
I've only had this truck for a little less than 2000 miles. The previous owner apparently had trouble performing routine maintenance. After taking the timing cover off, I noticed right away that both the guides were broke, and the chain had eaten through half the thickness of the tensioner. When the tensioner is fully extended, it will only compress a little more than 1/3 of the way into the cylinder. Is this normal?
BTW, the new guides went in effortlessly, everything lined up perfectly. The oil pump checks out good, so I'm just replacing the seal. Thanks for the tips.
Since parts of the guide are now in the oil pan, Im going to have to remove it to clean it out. What is the easiest way (exactly) to get the pan out? Haynes says to disconnect the pitman arm and steering, and Chilton says disconnect the differential, but neither details the procedures.
Also, I found an emission part (outside the motor) that is cracked. I took a picture of it and it can be found here -
TIA, Jovis
Well, I've been bored, waiting for the head to get finished. So I have been doing tear-down maintenance on parts that are now easy to get at. After looking at the grimy looking parts under the hood, I couldn't help myself, I've been cleaning and painting certain select covers and engine accessories. I'll post pics of the engine when I'm done. I've also been reading through Roger's site quite a bit. I just keep learning more and more about these Toys. I'm getting pretty comfortable under the hood now. Thanks Roger!
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