Does anyone know if the bolt holding the camshaft timing pulleys are clock-wise or counterclock-wise threads? I've been trying to remove the pulley bolts for two days with no luck. The lower crankshaft pulley bolt was clock-wise therefore i assume that the camshaft bolts would be clock-wise. Any suggestions on how to remove?
Thanks, Gregg
Gregg, they are CCW to loosen. And its a bear! We have a special "cam holding tool" as a shop SST and I've boughten my own from one of the big tool guys. These can be a bear. I doubt you'll be able to do it without the SST. Why are you removing them? Headgasket, cam seal leak?
I can second that. I tried everything I could think of to remove my camshaft pulleys (3VZ-E) without a SST but, in the end, I had to buy one. The one I purchased was: Schley Products Universal Camshaft Pulley Holder Part No. 96800
It was around $30 and did the job very nicely. Note that -- even with the tool -- it took some serious muscle on a 1/2"-drive breaker bar to loosen the bolts, which are torqued to 80 ft-lbs. In retrospect, I was kidding myself trying to break these bolts without some sort of serious tool for holding the pulley.
So, I would recommend getting the special tool and a nice breaker bar and being prepared to pull like hell in a counter-clockwise direction.
Good Luck.
Luther
Thanks, i did get it off this morning by holding a 10 mm socket through the pulley on one of the dust plate bolts and using a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar with a 3 foot cheater bar.
The pistons and cylinders look pretty good although carboned up quite a lot. I was wondering, would you bore them out and replace the pistons based on the engine having 185,000 miles?
Gregg
I'm impressed you got them off - I was tempted to try the same thing but was afraid I would shear that 10mm bolt right off the dust cover.
My engine has 291,000 miles on it and I have not had to do anything with regard to rings, pistons, etc. It does not burn or use oil. I think the advice MDT Tech gave on another thread is pretty good which is to keep the valve clearances adjusted properly and run it till it quits. Otherwise, you will probably end up needing a valve job at some point.
Luther
Gregg, boring is spendy when you consider boring labor, all new pistons. I bet you wont find a ridge at the top. Means I'd just hone and replace rings.
What about main bearings, would you replace?
Well, yes, along woth rod bearings. ANd I'd bet the crank, if its smooth, can be kept stock and run std bearings too.
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