88 Land cruiser alternator swap

New brushes is likely all it needs:

Go find a good local auto electric shop - either pull out the alternator and plop it on their counter, or if you don't want to deal with it yourself at all, they can pull it and put it back.

All they need to do is change the worn brushes, check the front and rear ball bearings, check the diodes, inspect for any other problems, and you are DONE and making electricity for another 10 years or so.

LandCruisers are oddballs in the USA - you aren't going to find drop-in replacements for that alternator that don't require custom modifications to install, the oversized 6L size fan belt pulley will see to that. If you still want to try, be sure to get the right size pulley.

And those Nippondenso alternators are pretty much bulletproof other than the brushes, which are a normal wear item like tires and brakes (but a pain in the ass to access).

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I'm stationed in Japan and drive a Surf (4Runner). The local parts dealers were going to gouge me to the tune of $250 for an alternator and I did some research on the Aussie Surf site and found I could easily change the brushes myself.

1. Remove alternator from vehicle. 3 bolts and 1 large wire and small harnesses.

1. Remove aluminum rear cover - 2 screws.

2. Remove brush holder - 2 screws. Solder in new brush. Be sure to wear glove and hold some tension on brush while heating with solder iron.

1. Reassemble.

Entire thing set me back 300 yen ($2.80) for original Toyota brushes. I'm told in the states you can find new brushes in the brush holder for 20 buck so no soldering needed.

Best wishes.

Bubba

If the brake and charge lights come on during revving of the engine then it's a sign that the carbon alternator brushes require replacing as this is the mileage for them to wear out.In alternators the brushes wear out on average every 140-170 000 miles where on the dashboard the brake & charge light both come on at the same time.About half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages sell carbon alternator brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts for about $5/pair.Another way to verify that the alternator is not charging is while the engine is running bring a metal screwdriver or any metal object near the alternator and if the alternator is working properly then it should act like a magnet and grab the screwdriver.

For carbon brushes R&R:

For decoding the dashboard lights:

Here are part #'s for Toyota alternator carbon brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts which are used in about 95% of all Toyota vehicles.

Toyota alternator Brushes with holder:

Toyota # 27370-35060=$29

Alternator brush only (qty:1 brush unless otherwise stated):

AC Delco # E724,E731 (side wire and concave tip) Ace Electric # DA-61 (brush only),S-5367 (brush holder) Beck Arnley # 178-1669 (side wire and concave tip) Beck Arnley # 178-1376 Borg Warner # X580 (side wire and concave tip) Canadian Tire # 19-2050-6=$4.49/pair Daihatsu # 27370-87302-000 Daihatsu # 27371-63020-000 Daihatsu # 27371-87501-000 Daihatsu # 27371-70300-000 Echlin # E601=$8.16/pair (UAP/NAPA) Echlin # ECHE601 Echlin # EC480 Echlin # ECHE480 GP Sorensen # 255047 (side wire and concave tip) GM # 94123056 GM # 96054118 Honda # 31144-PD1-004=$9.72 Honda # 31144-PD1-0040 Honda # 31144-PD1-0030 Honda # 31150-PR7-A01 Honda # 31150-PTO-003 Hino Industries # 021660-0390 Hino Industries # 021660-0510 Isuzu # 8-94123-056-0 Isuzu # 8-97032-308-0 Isuzu # 8-97032-310-0 Mazda # 021660-0390 Mazda # 021660-0510 Mazda # KL47-18-W75 Mileage Plus # E601SB Mitsubishi # MD604474 Mitsubishi # 21660-0510 Niehoff # WA571 (side wire and concave tip) NipponDenso # 021660-0390 NipponDenso # 021660-0510 Standard # JX-116 (side wire and concave tip) Subaru # 021660-0390 Subaru # 021660-0510 Suzuki # 31631-82610 Suzuki # 31656-82611 Suzuki # 021660-0510 Toyota # 27370-42010 Toyota # 27370-75060 Toyota # 27371-63020=$5.80 (up to 9105) (side wire and concave tip) Toyota # 27371-70300=$5.20 (9105-9511) UAP/NAPA # MPEE601SB Victory Lap # FAX57=$4.49/pair (Canadian Tire) Wilson's Electric # 26-29-7534 (side wire and concave tip)=$2.20 each (Diesel Auto Electric)(Parts for Trucks,box of 10 for $3.40)

Specifications: Length=15 mm Width=7 mm Thickness=5 mm Lead length=49 mm

5 starter repair sites:

- Starter contact kits:

Toyota # 28226-72010/80 (battery side) Toyota # 28226-72080(8808-9108) Toyota # 28226-16130(9108-9308) Toyota # 28226-55050(9308-9511) Toyota # 28226-70040(9308-9511) Toyota # 28226-72040 (motor side if needed) Toyota # 28226-72010(8808-9511) Toyota # 28226-74070(9108-9511)

Starter contacts only:

Toyota # 28226-70040 Wilson's Electric # 45-29-652

Starter brushes:

AC Delco # D762 GP Sorensen # 255048 Standard # JX-117

Whether your starter uses two rectangular types or one rectangular and one crescent you can substitute with two squares or one square and one crescent so any of the above part #'s for those kits will be the right ones,or about half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages would sell aftermarket contacts for only $5 each or the pair.

Sidney Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home E-mail:sidneybek(at)yahoo.com Dartmouth,Nova Scotia Canada

1985 Toyota 4-Runner,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 241 000 KM

I already replaced the Brushes and all the diodes checked out when I metered them. This leads me to believe that the culprit is the voltage regulator, which , according to Haynes(I know, not the greatest source of info) on the 88 and 89 fj62 alternators is a "true internal regulator" which is completely elctronic in a potted case. Autozone and Checker both want S100.00 for the damned thing. I'm wondering if there is an ac delco part or another ND part that was installed on a less exotic vehicle and therefor would be a cheaper replacement. I have heard that many australian toyotas come with AC delco electrical equipment..... MLM

Do most car alternators use brushes? All? If so, wished I woulda known this a while ago!

All do, as far as I know. Some designs are a lot easier to change than others.

The brushes last so long because they only have to pass a few amps through them to excite the field coils, not pass all the output power from the rotor commutator through them (30 to 100 amps) like old-style generators did. And no flashing the field coils.

They could come up with a brushless design, permanent magnet rotor or some sort of a self-exciting setup, but that is far more trouble than it's worth - and this way the Voltage Regulator just controls the field current going to the rotor coil directly.

With alternators "KISS" is still the big design target.

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I have an internal IC regulator on my 84 BJ60 and I am my alternator is not charging either and my glow plugs won't stay on for more than an instant.

looking for a cheap source for the same regulator