I just replaced ,with new equipment, the flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch disc, pressure plate, and t/o bearing on my 88 2wd p/u. It has a 22r engine, carb.
Taking out the tranny was easy enough. Putting it back on is a headache. I've pushed the transmission back on and am aligned ok. The problem is that I'm about 1/8" away from the tranny being flush (mating) with the stiffner plate. This gap is all of the way around the bell housing.
Anyone have any ideas what could be causing the gap?
========= ========= Russell, these trannies are extremely finicky about going back in. What you're experiencing is not uncommon at all.
The tolerance between the pilot bearing and the pilot shaft is very tight. If the end of the pilot shaft is good and the pilot bearing is new, and not boogered, and you are POSITIVE that the tranny is splined into the disc and the T/O bearing is on..............
here's what I would suggest, and the order I would personally try them...............
1) Be sure nothing has fallen down between the Eng. and the Tranny. (wire harness, tranny vent hose, wire loom bracket, etc.)
2) Be sure the trannies weight is supported on the front, and the trannies weight isn't being allowed to "hang" on the front end. (support the weight on the bellhousing)
3) Using a prybar, pry the tranny forward with a good bit of effort while slightly shaking the tranny. I use a 4ft prybar, prying against the top of the tranny where the shifter bolts to, using the area on the floorboard where the shifter bolts down to put the end of the pry bar. This applies the forward push to the tranny without causing an upward or downward force on the tranny. (this technique works in most situations)
4) AS A FINAL technique......install a couple of bolts in the two uppermost holes on each side of the bell and using a ratchet and extension, "draw" the bellhousing forward onto the engine. I use a 3ft extension on a 3/8 ratchet. You will experience some resistance as you draw the bolts down. Alternately tighten the bolts, slowly working the tranny forward. If at ANY TIME the bolts seem to "snug up", give the tranny a slight wiggle and try again. If the bolts seem to be snug...STOP.....if the bellhousing isn't flush with the engine, sorry......time to take er back out and be sure alls well on the pilot shaft, clutch disc., pilot bearing, etc..
Here's the deal........ if you used one of those plastic alignment tools to align the disc when you installed it, then that's likely the prob. It's off jest enough to cause your problem, but doing the above will "work" the disc into the right location to allow the tranny to slip forward with a bit of effort. If you've allowed the weight of the tranny to "hang" after getting tranny splined into the clutch disc, then the disc may be way out of whack and you'll likely have to drop the tranny to realign everything. You MUST have the tranny in gear in order to facilitate, make easier, the installation. If the tranny isn't in gear, the front shaft will tend to rotate a bit causing a bit of difficulty on "stabbing" the unit.
as a final note.....I run into this exact problem on MOST Yota's and Nissans. The tolerances are jest that good.
We tried the pry bar and that didn't work. So onto step #2 (drawing the tranny onto the block by tightinging the bolts)...and it worked! I could hear the shaft going into pilot bearing. Going this route made me a little uneasy because the flyers that come with the clutch/flywheel product say not to do this and I can see why. I would've stopped if I felt the bolt was hard to turn as though it was cross-treaded. But all bolts tightend normally and the tranny is now flush w/ the block. Another one of those "how-to" where experience pays off...Thanks for the tip!!!
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