91 SR5 4x4 won't turn over

check your  fuses first ,if not that it could be two of the batteries
plates touching together when you try to start the motor,which will create a
dead short  ,i would try another battery first before the starter motor

And this would be the case even if the battery was working fine
before, is fully charged, and is fairly new? (But swapping batteries
is a good idea...! Maybe I could try the battery out of my folks 2001
Toyota Highlander.) Still, it seems like if it was a battery problem,
the battery would be low, dead or old. ?

IAC will try more stuff tomorrow, but was busy today all day, and now
it's dark.

Susan wrote:

A simple test requiring two people.  Turn the headlights on, have
someone in front watching them.  Next, turn on the ignition and attempt
to start the engine.  Did the headlights turn off or even dim?  If they
turned off, the battery connections may be opening up.  If they dimmed,
check the level of electrolyte in the battery and make sure the plates
are covered.

On Fri, 02 Oct 2009 02:19:31 -0600, Oldphart



I meant to do this test today but was busy all day. Maybe I'll go try
that now... it's dark so would be easier to see if they dim! Hold on,
be right back....

Okay, the headlights did not dim even in the slightest. And again, the
truck makes no sound whatsoever when I turn the key. Not a peep.

The electrolyte is where it belongs, just below the fill caps, and
above the plates.  

(I appreciate everyone's help!)

Is it a 5 Speed?  Did you remember to push the clutch in, or push the
Clutch Bypass Button? (10 weeks is a long time...)

The CONTACTS inside the starter are a common problem, and a (relatively)
easy $10 fix. See:  http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/starter /

Thanks, I'll keep this handy in case it look like a starter problem!

Since it's an automatic, the problem COULD be the Neutral Interlock
Switch.  Located on the transmission, it prevents the starter from
engaging in any gear except Park (or Neutral).

The shifter IS in Park (or Neutral), right?  Have you wiggled the
shifter while you attempt to start it?

It was in park and I moved it out, then back in. Tomorrow I will try
putting it in Neutral to start (just to see) and then will try
jiggling while in Park to see if there is any response.

I live with my folks who are elderly and have been very busy with them
the last two days (and will be again tomorrow) so I haven't had the
time to devote to this that I planned on when I first made the post!
So I apologize for not being quicker with responses!  Thanks again for
helping.

I'd try jump starting first.  That will rule out the battery.  Also
try putting the transmission in neutral and starting, also back in
park.  You may have to check the contacts on the neutral start
switch.  Another thing to check is the starter relay.  Usually a green
relay either under the hood or behind the driver's side kick panel
depending on the year.  The starter contacts are a common problem but
you should hear the click of the starter relay and the click of the
starter solenoid if they were the problem.

wrote:



I tried starting it with the battery charger attached and in the Jump
(or Start Engine) position. Made zero difference. No click. No
nothing.


Yes, I will try this tomorrow.


Okay, I will look for info on where it's located.


How do I check it to see if it's bad? (Sorry for being so clueless!)


Yeah, no clicks, so I will look into these other suggestions! Thanks
for your help.

 I Googled to find it's on the right side of the transmission housing,
and also Googled for a picture of it. I also found this:

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_is_the_neutral_saftey_switch_on_a_1991_4WD_Toyota_Pickup_and_how_would_you_replace_it

but it isn't entirely clear to me what he's saying because I'm not
clear on his orientation. Maybe once I start it, it will become clear,
but if there's anything you want to add... ? :)

Susan wrote:

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_is_the_neutral_saftey_switch_on_a_1991_4WD_Toyota_Pickup_and_how_would_you_replace_it

By "checking the contacts", I believe they mean, "In park or neutral you
should have continuity between the 2nd and 3rd terminals from the right
on the bottom looking into the connector with the snap clip on top."
ibid (wiki.answers)
This would be "on your back, under the car". Not a enticing proposition!

This switch rarely goes bad, but when it does, your symptoms match.
Alternately, the wires going to the switch may have come loose.

But ya' gotta do what ya' gotta do! btw: this switch is very $pendy, so
you need to determine if it is, if fact, bad, before buying a new one.
Or, maybe you'll be "lucky" and have loose wires.

Good Luck!

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_is_the_neutral_saftey_switch_on_a_1991_4WD_Toyota_Pickup_and_how_would_you_replace_it

My truck has a 4" lift and 33" tires, so it sits real high and is easy
to get beneath. My problem remains that I'm looking at a foreign
country under there. Maybe I can ask a neighbor guy to come point out
the starter and neutral switch for me... if I clear the alarm as an
issue.


That would be lucky indeed. And I want to check for that, but it still
seems odd that the wires would go from being secure and fine to
completely loose to the point there is no signal getting through...
without an interim where I have periodic trouble. But stranger things
have happened, right?


THANKS. :)

I just reread you original post.  I believe I found a clue, "Alarm
system is off as it should be..."
"...ALARM SYSTEM..."!!!

Aftermarket, of course, with "Starter Disable"!
I would advise to tear it out.

On Mon, 05 Oct 2009 01:25:51 -0600, Oldphart


Okay. I'm all for it being the alarm's fault, but I'm not so sure.
Here's a little background and you can tell me if you still think it's
the alarm:

First, this truck only had 2 owners before me, and the original guy
who purchased it new had everything put it in at the time of purchase
that was state of the art, at that time. This included a mobile phone
with antenna on the back window, wired to the dash... this was in
1991, mind you, when mobile phones were gigantic and rare. He had the
alarm system installed too, (if it did not come as an option), but he
did everything top of the line and the alarm has been in it from day
one. (This truck has power locks, and when I press the keyfob to lock
the truck, the alarm automatically engages.)

Now comes the part that might change your mind. :) I have owned the
truck since 2001, and during this time I have disconnected the battery
many times. A few times to change batteries, other times when I was
working on the truck and needed to disconnect the battery to do what I
was doing. Whenever I have disconnected the battery, the alarm
triggers as I am loosening the terminals (safety thing), then again as
I am reconnecting it (same deal). I DREAD having to disconnect the
battery for that reason.... the alarm is so darn loud. But the point
is, it has never given me a problem afterwards. The truck has always
started right up.

Also, when I parked the truck last (last time I drove it, when
everything was peachy), I parked it in my backyard, so I did not lock
it. Meaning the alarm was not engaged. Now weeks later, I walk out and
go to start it, and ... nothing. AND the battery did not die during
this period or even get weak b/c a solar panel was keeping it charged.

Nevertheless, when the truck would not start I wondered about the
alarm system just because I was trying to cover everything it might
be, so I threw the alarm's toggle switch and tried starting, but it
didn't make a diff. I put the toggle back. I also sat inside the truck
and put the alarm on, then took it off, and tried again.

So, I do not want to 'tear out the alarm' if it isn't the problem, as
it's a good alarm and has never caused me problems. And I have never
had to "reset it" after losing power.... but I guess it could have a
"state" I don't know about, though after 9 years of owning this truck
that would be a little surprising!

Do you guys still think it's the alarm, or does that scenario seem
less likely now?  (I really wish I could have elminated some things
today, but was helping my folks all day.)

Susan wrote:

I wish I could say one way or another that the alarm has nothing to
do with it, but if the lights come on, the horn works, the radio plays,
and all of those things stay on, then there is something that is
preventing power from going to the starter solenoid.  The one thing I do
know on a good alarm system is they have a small capacitor or battery
backup that keeps the settings on the alarm system.  Mine is a cheaper
version of an Audiovox alarm system.  When I disconnected the battery
on my truck, every time I went to lock the doors with the keyfob, the
alarm would go off and not stop till I put the key in the switch.
I was going to rip my alarm out for that same reason till I found out
that whomever it was that installed it, put the break in the wires to
the starter solenoid someplace that was not easy for me to see, let
be able to access.
I did not have a book for the alarm system for my truck and I identified
my alarm by going to Audiovox and created a free account.  From there, I
chose a picture of the keyfob that came with my alarm and printed the
documents that were needed to reset the alarm back to original install.
As a matter of fact, I let my son take it to his shop class, and those
kids, who were smarter than I, did the reprogramming in a matter of
minutes.
If you can find the relay that is engergized by turning the key to the
"start" position, that would be a big start.
I have a wiring diagram for a 1993 toyota pickup 4wd ex cab which most
likely will be very similar to yours.  I would be glad to send a copy
if you would like.  Simple trouble shooting can start there and then
follow the trail of power till you lose it.  Most likely, there is a
relay somewhere that is not energizing.

On Tue, 06 Oct 2009 01:21:11 -0600, Oldphart


I double-checked the relay I found under the hood (over the passenger
fender in the fuse block box), and according to the awful Chilton
manual I have, this *is* the starter relay. (I say awful because, for
example, the picture that matches my truck is for the 4Runner, while
the picture that is supposed to by my 1991 truck does not match what
that block looks like at all.)


I would very much like a copy of the wiring diagram, even for future
use. If I cannot find one online, I will email you with my mailing
address, if you really don't mind putting it in the mail.

I just got back from PepBoys where I was going to pick up a new
starter relay, but they have to order it, and it will cost close to
$30 by the time they slap CA tax on it. I was thinking it was going to
be $10 bucks. Not that I mind $30 if I know it will fix it, but if it
doesn't I will have to buy other stuff, so I either want to find a
cheaper vendor or test this relay somehow to see if it's actually bad.
Thanks again for all of your help!

Take a look at the relay and just jumper the 2 contacts -= see if it
cranks. If it does, might be the relay, might be the control circuit.
If it doesn't crank, it's not the relay's fault.

On Wed, 07 Oct 2009 17:38:47 -0400, clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:


Thanks. Unfortunately I was already gone to pick up the part. It
wasn't the relay's fault, because I bought a new one, and it didn't
fix it.